The North Shore...There and Back

Save the skiers...from themselves!

2012-01-24T07:07:00.000-06:00

Nordic skating on Lake Superior from http://www.nordicskating.org/superior/mileout.jpg

Recently I wrote here about how delusional skiers are. They are over-the-top optimistic about the poor cross country ski conditions here in Duluth.

But maybe it’s better that they stick to the trails and suffer than get out for the really wacky alternative stuff.

Skiers are giving up on the forest trails and want to go ice skating. But when you've got wild trails in your blood, you can't settle for a city ice rink. So skiers are buying special nordic skates they can attach their ski boots to, then having a great time on the Bay. Check out the pics and the gear at NordicSkating.org.

Biking down the St. Louis River by Hansi Johnson

Other frustrated skiers are using their mountain bikes to run down the frozen rapids of the St. Louis River in Jay Cooke State Park.

A colleague of mine can’t find enough snow on the lakes for kite boarding, so he’s hoping for enough wind to go surfing. In Lake Superior. In January.

We need some snow. Save the skiers from themselves.

North Shore geology experiment

2012-01-17T20:04:00.001-06:00

It's now a proven fact: Rocks move "down" the North Shore. Who'da thunk it? I was pleasantly surprised to see that a student at Duluth's Woodland Middle School's big annual Science Fair took on the task of proving that rocks do, in fact, move from "up" the shore (like Grand Marais) to "down" the shore (like Duluth).

(Speaking of Grand Marais, do you suppose ace North Shore photographer Bryan Hansel authorized use of his photo in the lower right of the board??)

The student used Sparky Stensaas' great North Shore rock book to identify and label the classic North Shore rocks. Then the student used a geologic map of the North Shore to identify where the rocks came from. Then, using some mysterious calculus, the student found what direction the rocks on various beaches from Duluth to Tettegouche were from their starting spot.

The conclusion was unequivocal: North Shore beach rocks do relocate. The student even nailed some of the possible causes, listing the glacial period along with longshore currents, seiches, "and even humans."

As a well-educated grown-up, I know that glaciers were the main cause of this. And that they carried their loads from the northeast to the southwest..."down" the shore. I also know that what longshore currents there are on the shore drive rocks the same way, only very slowly. Check out the rhyolite shingle beach at Iona's Beach SNA for a classic example of this; you'll find a beach full of rhyolite cobbles just west of a pure red rhyolite cliff.

But isn't it neat that an eighth grader found out the same thing all by herself? I especially like her second conclusion:

This project is valuable in learning how the beaches of the North
Shore were made and how their content is ever-changing.

Good job, Woodland eighth grader! Good for you and for all the rock hounds out there.

Skiers are delusional

2012-01-09T21:15:00.000-06:00

I went skiing at Duluth's Piedmont trails last week, first thing in the morning on the day that The Big Thaw began. There was just an inch or two of snow on the trails, not enough for a classic track but enough to cover most of the rocks and sticks. I skied all 5 kilometers and left thinking, "Hmmm...not bad."

Must have been those feel-good endorphins speaking. It was bad. It was awful. Mid-January and there's not enough snow to set a track? Who was I kidding?

The Big Thaw has continued for five days now. Skiers are still finding snow, and they are either hugely optimistic or totally delusional. Here's a sampling from SkinnySki.com today:

"Only one part of the trail was basically unskiable" (regarding Boulder Lake trails)

"We saw some stubble, but really not bad at all." (from Central Gunflint trails)

"Enough rocks and roots present to make it an exercise in situational awareness" (about Snowflake trails)

If you want to ski and actually would like some snow that is not awful, head up the North Shore to Tofte and ski on the Onion River Road. Or head inland to the Flathorn Gegoka trails.

Yes, a bad day skiing is better than a good day at the office. And after all that time sidestepping logs and seeking out tracks deep enough to hold a Hot Wheel, you deserve to be proud. Delusional, but proud.

"Not even eaten at all."

2011-12-23T13:47:00.000-06:00

This bit of news from the Duluth News Tribune on February 10, 1898 sure was a relief to read. We're headed up to Ely over the holidays and would have hated to come across Mr. Cameron's remains.

The sun came back!

2011-12-22T09:14:00.000-06:00

We made it through the longest night of the year. Last night, the sun (sol) stood still (stice) Thanks to dozens of bonfires and some drum circles along the shores of Lake Superior during the night, the sun did finally return this morning, right on schedule.

The sun rose basically in the east, of course, but it rose 23.5 degrees south of east, the furthest that way it gets all year. Watching the sun rise over the cloudy horizon this morning from Park Point, it came up over Wisconsin.

In the summer, from our view in Duluth, the sun rises right up out of the long end of Lake Superior.

Okay, that's the solstice, the first day of winter. It can start snowing now. Anyone got a drum circle for that?

Desperate times, 2011 edition

2011-12-17T11:29:00.000-06:00

The winter of 2011-2012 is off to a slow start. Nature has not provided much snow to the North Shore area. I've chronicled desperate times before in this blog, from back in 2008, when we weren't skiing until late December and I biked on the beach and ran screaming down ski trails. I'm grumpy now, wanting to get out on real snow on a real trail.

The Duluth Denfeld Hunters Nordic Ski team has been skiing on snow for two weeks now. Thanks to the generosity of Spirit Mountain, the Denfeld team has been able to practice and race on the man-made snow of the slopes.

It was a bizarre scene this week at Spirit when Denfeld hosted their annual ski race. Drizzle all day had turned into a heavy layer of fog perched right at the top of the hill in Duluth. Driving into Spirit there was just a dusting of snow in the woods. Then you walk out toward the racecourse and suddenly there's two feet of snow on the ground. There were more cross country skiers than downhill skiers, and those skinny skis stuck out in a ski world more about wide skis and wider snowboards.

The course started right by the chalet and went uphill. Skiers disappeared into the fog and dark. Less than a minute later, they zoomed out of the fog straight down the ski run, snowplowing or step-turning to make the big curve around the chalet.

Although it was desperate measures for these desperate times, the foggy hilly race was a lot of fun. The Denfeld boys took second place, behind the mighty East High School. It was actual real skiing at a North Shore ski area. Despite all that, I'm still grumpy. Maybe next time they'll let me on the course.

North Shore Christmas tree traditions

2011-12-14T21:58:00.002-06:00

We're not all that into Christmas here. But I kinda thought we had a tradition going. For six or seven years now, the whole Slade/Rauschenfels family has gone up the North Shore a ways to get our Christmas tree. We go to Herb Sellin's tree farm, 2.5 miles up from the Highway 61 Expressway on Homestead Road.

This last weekend, on a lovely Saturday afternoon, Sally and I headed out...without the boys. The older son was at a ski meet, and the younger son was feeling sick. So, in an early glimpse of future empty-nesting, it was just the two of us tracking along on one of our few holiday traditions. It was fun but a little...empty.

Herb's trees scatter across a large field, but we knew right where to head. It's tradition. Every year I suggest getting a white pine, and every year we head to the patch back and to the right...where the balsam firs are. For the last few years, I've handed the cutting over to our older son, who's done an admirable job with the Sven Saw. Now that job fell back to me.

The tree sits in its stand on our back deck for a few hours...

Then gets brought inside and decorated. Tradition says we listen to Willowgreen's Winter album.

My own North Shore Christmas tree tradition goes back much further than this. From the family cabin in Little Marais, it's a quarter-mile hike through the birch woods to the old pioneer field at Granny's Beach. Over the decades, spruce trees have grown in to slowly cover the old field. Because they had grown in the open, the trees were fuller and greener than any conifer we'd find in among the birches. Still, the best of these trees was as spindly and awkward as the last tree left on any commercial tree lot.

Family tradition also dictated that any tree that gets taken has to free up another tree to grow. That's an early lesson in sustainable forestry, I guess, but it also ensured that every tree was at least a little lopsided.

I remember back before we found Herb's lot when I brought both boys out to the field to find a tree. The younger one was in the backpack, the older holding my hand and walking alongside. Coming back through the birch woods with our scraggly spruce tree, the older one got tired and I ended up carrying him in one arm, dragging the tree with my other arm, and still carried the younger one on my back.

Herb's trees are full and rounded and nearly perfect. I'm good with that; I like how our trees fill up the room.

What I'm not good with, quite yet, is losing my boys. Sports and sick bugs be darned, I've got a tradition to fulfill.

Downhill Duluth?

2011-12-08T10:57:00.000-06:00

Duluth is a city on a hill...a sometimes very steep hill. What would it be like to strap on downhill skis and swoosh down to Lake Superior? This video was shot in British Columbia, but about half the scenes could totally be in Duluth's Central Hillside neighborhood. I loved the barking dog and the old guy with the bike trailer.

Great Duluth skiing ahead...just need some snow

2011-11-28T20:52:00.000-06:00

Blue blob over MN means cooler temps.

There is a great season of cross country skiing ahead for Duluth. Despite major budget challenges, the city is receiving twice as much money as last year from the state for ski trail grooming. The Duluth XC Ski Club has taken over management at the Spirit Mountain Nordic Center.

White space over MN means average temps.

The long range forecast still calls for below-average temperatures and average precipitation, which add up to more snow.

Now we just need some snow.

A North Shore Black Friday

2011-11-25T22:21:00.000-06:00

Canadians rushing down Highway 61 to Duluth on our Thanksgiving because their Thanksgiving was last month.

Lines snaking past the kitschy keychains and into the Rubbermaid aisle at Joynes' Ben Franklin.

And a black-and-white poodle getting all the love on a day known just for the black.

Today was Black Friday, and the North Shore nearly missed it. No doorbusters at the Lake Superior Trading Post in Grand Marais. No controversial midnight openings at Waters Edge in Tofte. Just 20% off all clothing and footwear at Grand Marais' landmark five and dime, Joynes.

All the super good deals must have been in Duluth and places south. Literally two of every three cars driving south on Highway 61 on Thursday had Ontario plates. Their drivers had an obvious sense of purpose, driving straight and fast. Their only stop might be at a gas station for remarkably cheap-sounding $3.29/gallon gas.

Grand Marais' two big retail shops, Joynes and the Trading Post, were both shoulder-to-shoulder busy. The cashier at one said it was just like Fishermens Picnic, the busiest day of the summer.

In the middle of all this, I picked up some extra-large wool socks and a colorful new leash for Daphne, the parti poodle. On this Black day, the black-and-white poodle pulled in the fans who had exhausted the two superstores:

"What did you mix for THAT dog?"
"Is that a Holstein dog?"
"What's his name?" (everyone assumes she's a he, especially when her pink collar is hidden in unbrushed curls.

A great day for Grand Marais.

Same point, different poodle

2011-11-14T19:19:00.000-06:00

I've been trying out the new dog.

Longtime readers of this blog will remember a certain canine star, the late great Chloe. Chloe left us way too soon last winter. She was a GREAT hiker, bringing the need for speed and a craving for the chase to our woodland excursions. Check out a long, long list of "Poodle Posts" here.

They say every boy needs a dog. Well, just about every hiker does too. Especially when, like me, the hiker has to hike alone. So I've been trying out the new dog.

Daphne is a "parti" poodle, part black and part white...and all poodle. She was born just two days after Chloe met her fate last February, and she joined our family last spring. She's lovely.

The other day, I took Daphne out to the end of Duluth's Park Point, where Minnesota Avenue meets a gate and a dirt road continues past the Sky Harbor airport and into the pines.

Chloe was a sprinter, running out far ahead to stake her place. Daphne is a laggard, staying back to sample the smells and tastes.

Chloe would bark out into the world, longing for a response from another barking dog. Daphne is all about the smells, sniffing every conspicuous log for her news of the world.

On this walk, she stays close by, not quite as sure of her place in the world. This dog is domestic, a lap dog, out for a stroll with her people, not a high-octane wilderness adventure.

Then it's a return walk along the beach back to the parking lot. This dog stays close behind me...nice! Chloe's joy and downfall was her desire to explore and chase. Much to my relief, Daphne shows no inclination to run up the dunes out of sight.

I walked here with Chloe many times, in winter and in summer.

Now it's the new dog. Daphne Delilah Slade, you're testing out okay.

Vote YES for Duluth trails, libraries

2011-10-30T17:12:00.001-05:00

If you live in Duluth, you will have the chance to vote on a referendum supporting increased funding for Duluth city parks. Here are three really good reasons you should vote YES:

1. Those ice-flow areas on the Lester Park ski trails that need trail repair.
2. Those sketchy bathrooms at Indian Point campground
3. All the lost hikers at Hartley Park.

If the referendum passes, Duluth trail users and park lovers will see marked improvement in trail maintenance, park facilities, and wayfinding signage. Funding will be restored to the levels last seen in 2003, before government cutbacks began eviscerating parks and programming.

Here are three more good reasons Duluth outdoor enthusiasts should vote YES:

1. 977.49 Si94t

2. 364.1523 F323w

3. 778.93 B565m

Those are the Dewey call numbers for three essential North Shore books, available at the Duluth Public Library:

Howard Sivertson's Tales of the Old North Shore
Gail Feichtinger's Will to Murder
Craig Blacklock's Minnesota's North Shore.

The Duluth parks referendum, in addition to funding our parks, will also help fund our libraries. If the parks referendum doesn't pass, the city will have to close Duluth's two branch libraries.

Duluth parks and libraries make this city on Lake Superior truly a great place to live. Vote YES to return both resources to their glory.

Check out the new wayside at Split Rock

2011-10-26T10:29:00.000-05:00

If you've driven on the North Shore this summer, you surely experienced the traffic back ups for construction in the Split Rock area. MnDOT completed a two-year-long project straightening out Highway 61 just west of the Lighthouse. The new highway is gorgeous, wide and fast.

The new highway alignment runs about 200 yards away from one of the North Shore's most distinct wayside rests, a classic pull-off with a great view of Split Rock Lighthouse and the open waters of Lake Superior. For the traveler dedicated to enjoying Lake Superior, this is a great change.

Follow the spanking new blue "Wayside Rest" signs off of Highway 61, and you'll loop away from the new highway and back over to the old highway.

Not only is the old wayside rest still there, it has been substantially improved. I love the variety of rocks found in the pillars...North Shore gabbro and diabase, granite from somewhere, even a southern Minnesota limestone.

Now, instead of having highway traffic speed by just feet away from you as you try to take in the view, scenic viewers have the overlook all to themselves. A foot trail leads away from the overlook toward the lighthouse; next time I'll find out where that goes,

MnDOT may iron the curves out of Highway 61 until it's an arrow-straight line from Duluth to Grand Portage, but as long as they leave these quiet and scenic waysides, I'm okay with it.

It's see-through season: Hike the ski trails of Duluth

2011-10-17T20:07:00.001-05:00

Nearly bare tree on Superior Hiking Trail, Duluth, Fall 2011

It's see-through season. Say it three times fast and it's a tongue twister. Say it three times slowly, like you mean it, and then head for your nearest hiking trail...or even better, your nearest ski trail.

Every year brings a window of opportunity for unique hiking. The lovely leaves and their fall colors have fallen off the trees. The ground is dry. The ski trails have been mowed, their tall summer grasses trimmed to lawn-like height.

Mount Trudee as seen from a Tettegouche hiking trail, Fall 2009

You can literally see through the forest. Distant ridgelines you never knew were there are as clear as the logs underfoot. Lovely views of Lake Superior open up where before it was just leaves.

Piedmont ski trails and a poodle, Fall 2010

If you're in Duluth, now's your chance to head for the city's vast system of cross-country ski trails, without your skis.

At the Magney ski trail, walk in from the parking lot and hike the Bardon Peak loop.

At the Piedmont ski trail, the far eastern side of the trail is the driest and the best hiking.

At the Chester Park trail, walk the whole 3.2 kilometer loop.

At Hartley Park, you can combine the Superior Hiking Trail with the Inner or Outer ski trail.

Finally, at sprawling Lester Park, you can explore miles of ski trail; just don't get lost.

Lutsen gondola: Why hike when you can stroll?

2011-10-10T11:21:00.001-05:00

Looking for a great, amazingly scenic North Shore experience? Want to stroll and enjoy the view rather than hike and clamber? Head for Lutsen Mountains. The gondola ride to the top of Moose Mountain is like an express train to Beautyland.

There is a great 4.2 mile hike from the top of the gondola back down on the Superior Hiking Trail. The maples of Mystery Mountain are amazing. The Via Ferrata-like scamper below the Moose Mountain ridge is remarkable..and difficult. That hike is Hike #35 in Hiking the North Shore, and it definitely lives up to the book's subtitles as one of "50 fabulous hikes."

It's the peak of fall colors. It's gorgeous up top of the mountain. Why watch every step and grab every handhold deep in the dark forest when you could be sauntering about enjoying the views?

It turns out that while the Superior Hiking Trail scampers around for a half mile below the ridge, a wide, flat ski run follows the very top of the ridge. And while only a few people were taking the Superior Hiking Trail challenge, fully half of the folks up on the mountain this weekend were strolling up that ski run...a lovely wooded way.

The ski run is basically a wide road that connects the top of three Moose Mountain chairlifts back down to the Summit Chalet. On the maps, it's called the Ridgeline Trail. With a blanket of fallen leaves on the ground and great views opening up down the ski runs, strolling there was like walking through a fine art gallery.

Fall colors are quickly fading in the Lutsen area, especially with the recent wind. Come back next year and have a lovely stroll on top of the world.

If you go:

The gondola, or "mountain tram", runs from the base of the Lutsen Mountains ski area, up the Ski Hill Road from Highway 61 in Lutsen. A round-trip ticket costs about $12/ person. Dogs and young kids ride free.

On top of the gondola, you'll find the Summit Chalet, where you can enjoy food and beverages.

Check out the Lutsen hiking trail map to get oriented.

North Shore colors: Remember the Superior National Forest

2011-09-30T15:01:00.000-05:00

Oberg Lake and the Superior National Forest from the Oberg Mountain Trail, September 2009

This weekend will be one of the busiest and most beautiful of the year on the North Shore, as the autumn color show is at its peak and the weather forecast is fine. While thousands will head for the state parks, those in the know will head for the Superior National Forest...whether they know it or not.

Most of the Superior Hiking Trail east of Tofte is in the Superior National Forest. Favorite fall color hikes like Oberg and Leveaux mountains are in the National Forest, and so is most of the Lutsen gondola hike.

The Superior National Forest promotes great automobile tours for fall colors, including this guide for the North Shore. They have four different drives to recommend, including the Moose Drive up toward the Cramer Road and the Maple Leaf Drive that loops behind Carlton Peak through the heartbreakingly beautiful maples of Heartbreak Ridge.

The forest also maintains a whimsical fall color conditions report . In the latest edition, they let Winnie the Pooh suggest:

Don't underestimate the value of Doing Nothing, of just going along,

listening to all the things you can't hear, and not bothering.

If you can't make it up the shore and are stuck at your computer, tap into the National Forest's Flickr photostream of current fall colors.

Get ready for fall colors

2011-09-19T17:29:00.000-05:00

Fall color tapestry below Sawmill Dome, September 2010

The best time for hiking the North Shore is here. Clear your calendars for some adventurous treks through lovely forests with the best Lake Superior views of the year.

Bean Lake in a bowl of fall colors/

Be sure to head for one of the great ridgeline overlooks. On one side, Lake Superior glimmers in a deep dark blue. On the other side, a tapestry of color spreads out beneath you. Some of my favorite fall color overlooks are on Oberg Mountain, Leveaux Mountain, and Sawmill Dome.

The birch trees are already changing at North Shore state parks. Head seven miles in from Finland on Lake County Road 7 to explore George H. Crosby-Manitou State Park and the Yellow Birch Trail, which should be lovely this next week. Smoke from the Pagami Creek fire may be blowing that way, so be ready to shift plans east or west depending on the wind conditions.

The Minnesota Department of Natural Resources predicts an excellent fall color season. Drought in the Ely area has triggered early colors in the region’s birch trees. Check on the latest fall colors with a report from the DNR.

Big lake, bigger bird: Park Point Pelican

2011-09-17T16:15:00.000-05:00

I was pretty excited last night when I heard my son say, "There's a HUGE bird on the beach." First, that's about five more words than I typically get out of him. And second because he was noticing something natural and not something digital. And to my amazement, he kept talking. "It's a swan or something."

Of course I had to see for myself, so I headed out for the door with my camera. I didn't even have to leave the kitchen before I saw it for myself, this mass of white floating as if it were styrofoam over the lake. I've only seen this big bird in Duluth 2 or 3 times before, but I knew right away it was a pelican. The White Pelican, Pelecanus erythrorhynchos.

But I continued down to the beach. Pelicans are here in Duluth only as a "casual straggler." Funny that out in the lake behind it was another straggler, the Dutch-flagged saltie Kwintebank.

This morning I caught another glimpse of the pelican, still out the kitchen window. I headed out again, this time with the dog, and managed to get closer to the bird as it swam along the beach. Zooming in, I managed not so shoddy a picture.

We kept on walking down the beach, dog and I. When I turned around, the big bird was nowhere to be seen on the lake. Within a minute or two, I realized why: it was up on the beach. So dog and I carefully made our way high up on the beach near the dunes and walked respectfully past the bird. The pelican was quiet and moved just slowly, keeping one eye on me and the poodle at all times.

The pelican, up close, is more beautiful and more big than I ever imagined. Every twist and turn of the neck is gorgeous to watch, and the long beak. When I got back home, I read in my bird guide that pelican's wing span can be up to 9 1/2 feet...WOW. Back in our living room, I showed my son how that wing span would reach from one side of the room to the other.

Thanks, pelican, for visiting Lake Superior and giving us all a little thrill.

Sig's shack

2011-09-08T14:19:00.000-05:00

I had the rare opportunity last week to visit Sigurd Olson's writing shack. Much to my surprise, it was not at the famed Listening Point, but right in town in Ely. My brother George and his partner had met Listening Point Foundation's executive director, Alanne Dore, and she invited them to see the shack. I tagged along, and was really glad I did.

The shack looks like Sig had just left. I was stunned to see that the last thing he ever typed was still in the typewriter:

A New Adventure is coming up

and I'm sure it will be

a good one.

Perhaps subconsciously aware of his own passing, Sig typed those words, then went out in the woods on his snowshoes and died. The snowshoes rest in the corner of the shack.

Sigurd Olson is best known for his work in the Boundary Waters and for wilderness preservation worldwide. He would come to the North Shore area primarily to fish the headwaters of the streams for brook trout. He did write a lovely poem about Lake Superior; when I find a copy I'll link to it here. There is talk now and then about naming Minnesota Highway One, the winding wild road connecting Ely and the North Shore, to Sigurd Olson Highway.

An entire desktop in the shack was covered with rocks, some of which could have been from a North Shore beach but others coming from much further away. Probably a lifetime of memories right there, captured like a Zen garden.

As a writer, naturalist, educator and fan of wilderness myself, I was deeply moved by the experience. The writing shack is so resonant with the spirit of the man. The future of it is unclear, as it sits on private property. If you're inspired by the work and words of Sigurd Olson, consider supporting the Listening Point Foundation.

Best Duluth hikes by bus

2011-09-05T19:59:00.000-05:00

Getting to a great North Shore hike can mean as much driving as hiking. It's a pretty good haul up the Onion River Road or all the way to Grand Portage for your outdoor experience.

Not so for hikers in Duluth. Just walk to the corner, hop on the Duluth Transit Authority bus, then ring the dinger for your trailhead bus stop.

From downtown Duluth, you can catch the #3 bus going west toward Proctor. 30 minutes and a few quarters for the bus fare later, and you're at the corner of Highland Street and Skyline Drive. It's a rugged nine mile hike on the Superior Hiking Trail along scenic Peace Ridge and past Enger Tower back to downtown.

Or hop on the #13 bus headed up Woodland and ride all the way to Hartley Nature Center, about a 25 minute trip. Then hike back to downtown via Hartley, UMD's Bagley Nature Area, Chester Creek and the Lakewalk, 4.5 miles all on the Superior Hiking Trail.

One more trip from downtown Duluth: you can take the #15 bus from downtown all the way to the Park Point Recreation Area. From there, you can either hike past the airport into the pine forest and the Superior Entry, or you can walk the gorgeous sand beach all the way back to Canal Park.

For more information on any of these hikes, check out my book:
Hiking the North Shore: 50 Fabulous Day Hikes in Minnesota's Spectacular Lake Superior Region (There & Back Guides)

The State Fair is on; special secret season for the North Shore

2011-08-22T16:40:00.000-05:00

The Great Minnesota Get-Together is starting up this week. If you want S'Mores without the hassle of 1) camping, 2) campfires and 3) stick whittling, you could go to the Fair and patronize the "Real S'Mores" shack. They might even put it on a stick for you.

But if you want another authentic Minnesota experience, head for the North Shore instead. As soon as the Fair starts, the summer crowds on the North Shore drop right off. Shhhhh...it's the special secret season!

As of today, there are open campsites you can still reserve at every North Shore state park from Gooseberry to Judge Magney. Come mid-week you can have your choice of any park. Things will pick up over Labor Day weekend; get up here and enjoy the special secret late summer season.

If you come to the North Shore in the next week or so and you still need a taste of the Big Fair, you can check out the Midway, livestock judging and even greasy food at the Lake County Fair, August 25-28.

If you really want the Giant Slide, head for Spirit Mountain's Timber Twister or Lutsen's Alpine Slide.

Come up for some gorgeous late summer weather and to experience the trails and towns of the North Shore without the summer crowds. It's special!

Down the river, to the beach

2011-08-15T18:37:00.000-05:00

Heavy rains pummeled the western Lake Superior area earlier this month. Up to six inches of rain fell in a band just south of Superior, Wisconsin...the headwaters of the Nemadji River. The rising river tore at the clay banks and carried everything it grabbed down to Lake Superior. It created not only a plume of red clay into the lake but a veritable parade of tree trunks, some more alive than others.

While the new horizontal forest is thickest down toward the end of Minnesota Point, there was still a lot of big wood on our own beach. My crafty neighbor quickly built an entire teepee frame out of the 8-10 foot logs. The 20-foot to 30-foot trees were just too big for him, and the fresh ones with their branches sanded clean by the current just too awkward.

A few days later, these skeleton trees began washing up on the Park Point beach. They must have followed the Nemadji current out through the Superior Entry and to the open lake. These massive logs speak to the power of water and wind and waves.

I'm always nervous when things start washing up on the Lake Superior shore. Two years ago I was half-expecting to find a kayaker's remains along our beach. This last rain storm, its downpour channeled into our streams, carried another victim to Lake Superior, Jefferson Bowen, a Duluth 13-year-old, who drowned on Amity Creek and whose body was found up the shore from the mouth of the Lester River a few days later.

But almost all the time, the Lake brings cool, good things. Like massive driftwood. Agate chips. Foreign beer cans. And, so his family can rest, the body of a adventurous kid.

On the road with Sam Cook

2011-08-02T11:04:00.002-05:00

Chris Evavold being photographed by Sam Cook at Divide Lake

Every two or three years, the phone rings and a familiar voice with just a hint of Kansas in it says, "Hi, Andrew, Sam Cook." Just like the sound of a bell got Pavlov's dogs to salivate, that voice makes me start to stuff my day pack. We're going on an adventure.

Sam wanted to do an article about North Shore hiking and our new book, Hiking the North Shore: 50 fabulous day hikes in Minnesota's spectacular Lake Superior region. "Where would you like to go, Andrew?," Sam asked. What a great question to get!

Sam was looking for something different. The day would be hot, so it would be good to be near a lake. He'd done a lot on the Superior Hiking Trail. He wanted to bring his lab, Lucy. Fortunately, I had the perfect hikes for him. And the perfect hiking companion.

Eighteen Lake and Divide Lake are both in the Superior National Forest, just east of Isabella off Highway One. They both have hiking trails around the shore, 2.7 miles at Eighteen Lake and 2.1 at Divide Lake. In the National Forest, dogs can run free off leash. And Divide Lake is a trout lake, which was perfect for my old friend Chris Evavold.

Pipsissewa in bloom along Divide Lake trail

Chris, Sam and I met in Duluth and headed up Highway 61 to Illgen City. I drove Sam's minivan so he could ask me questions and jot down notes in his classic narrow reporter's notebook. I was ready: "What's so great about hiking here?" "Why did you want to write this book?"

At Illgen City I checked my watch. The "Lake Superior region" in the subtitle of my book roughly means anywhere you can reach within one half hour of driving from Highway 61. It was 32 minutes up Highway One to Divide Lake. Phew!

Hiking (or skiing, or snowshoeing, which I've done with him for other articles) with Sam is a moving chat fest in the woods. Much of the conversation is off the record and only distantly related to the story at hand. But every few moments, Sam would either dash ahead to get photos of Chris and me, or lag behind to write in his notebook.

The hikes were scenic and a lot of fun. Divide Lake is more for anglers and naturalists, with interesting botany and (supposedly) trout in the lake. Eighteen Lake is great for hiking, with lovely pine forests and dramatic views up and down the wild lake.

After the hike around Eighteen Lake, Sam got "head shots" of Chris and me. We were into the heat of the day, so before we headed back to Duluth we went for a refreshing swim in the cool lake waters. Just what the reporter ordered.

Here's the article. There's some good related content, too. See you out there!

Duluth beyond Lake Superior

2011-08-01T11:59:00.000-05:00

Park Point message says it all: "I LOVE DULUTH."

Newspaper readers in Minneapolis, Kansas City and even Miami recently got a great tour of our fair city, Duluth.

Star-Tribune reporter Curt Brown did a great job catching the charming back corners of the Zenith City. Maybe you'll find some pointers too!

Duluth beyond Lake Superior: Turn your back on the big water for a while - Travel Wires - MiamiHerald.com

White, waxy and weird wildflowers of the North

2011-07-27T16:36:00.000-05:00

I had a great day of hiking this week up in the Isabella area. It's a 25-minute drive from Highway 61 through Finland along Highway 1 to Isabella, and we were still in the Lake Superior watershed, but it felt like arriving in another world.

The forest changes from what you'd call "North Woods" to "Boreal." The main thing that was different was the wildflowers. In fact, I turned to an old book on my bookshelf, Plants of Quetico and the Ontario Shield, by Quetico park naturalist Shane Walshe.

These flowers from the North were white, weird and waxy.

Along the Divide Lake trail (Hike 28 in my book Hiking the North Shore), we found clumps of Indian Pipe (Monotropa uniflora). Waxy and white, this flower has lives on decaying soil matter and needs no chlorophyll, thus it is white and not green at all. According to Plants of Quetico, "parboiled, boiled and roasted, this species tastes like asparagus."

Near the trailhead, I found clumps of baneberries. Yes, those white waxy "dolls eyes" are the berry of the baneberry plant (Actaea pachypoda). While you might confuse them with yogurt-covered raisins, they are quite poisonous to humans. Grouse and white-footed mice will eat them and, I presume, spread the seeds in ways I'd rather not visualize.

The last waxy weird wildflower we saw was the pipsissewa (Chimaphila umbellata). Shane Walsh wrote, "The leaves make a pleasant nibble." According to Wikipedia, the name means "it breaks into small pieces."

It was a lovely day up in the boreal north just inland from Lake Superior. But it's nice to be back where the plants are green and the berries are blue.

A gonzo take on Lake Superior

2011-07-26T12:59:00.000-05:00

Did you know that Lake Superior is about a million feet deep? That the shipping lanes run so close to shore they could run over an inflatable raft? Watch Jim Richardson's Gonzo take on Lake Superior and the North Shore. The sounds of splashing water alone make this worth repeated viewing.

Get back into the wild at Tettegouche's High Falls

2011-07-21T13:28:00.000-05:00

The State Parks are back! Take this weekend to reacquaint yourself with the deep pockets of scenery and nature in the North Shore parks.

To the High Falls

High Falls of the Baptism, May 2011, from Flickr

Recent rains have lifted North Shore streams out of their summer slumber. With the shutdown over and the park gates open again, head deep into Tettegouche State Park for the short walk to the High Falls of the Baptism River.

At approximately 70 feet tall, this the highest waterfall completely in Minnesota...the High Falls of the Pigeon River at Grand Portage are taller, but are shared with Ontario.

Reaching the falls
Enter Tettegouche State Park off Highway 61 at mile marker 85.6. Pick up your vehicle permit at the park office, then continue 1.5 miles on the park road to the trail center parking lot past the campground.

Signs lead all the way to the High Falls. You'll follow the big main trail up and out of the parking lot for about 500 yards, then turn right on the Superior Hiking Trail. It's another 500 yards or so on the Superior Hiking Trail to the falls, which should be raging pretty good after the rains. Spur trails lead off to viewing platforms and to the fun suspension bridge over the river.

If this doesn't satisfy your want of waterfalls, you can continue downstream on trails either side of the river to scenic Two-Step Falls.

Picnic and swim at the mouth
After your hike, return down the park road, cross the old bridge over the Baptism and park on the right side. It's a short stroll down to the gravel beach at the mouth of the Baptism River, where you'll find excellent swimming (on the river side if the lake is too rough or too cold). This is a perfect spot to enjoy your rustic picnic lunch in a classic North Shore setting.

North Shore wipe out; bring your own TP

2011-07-20T15:19:00.001-05:00

Open outhouse with all the toilet paper gone, Temperance 7/14

It looks like Minnesota's finest state parks, the eight gems along the North Shore, will start to reopen this weekend. If you're headed up the shore and stopping at a park, you still might want to bring your own toilet paper.

While the parks were closed to vehicle traffic, plenty of park lovers walked into the parks from Highway 61. And while the fancy buildings with the flush toilets were locked up, most of the outhouses were left open. When these outhouse users were cleaning up, they cleaned out the toilet paper.

I cringe to imagine what desperate measures might have been taken after the TP was gone at easy-to-reach outhouses like those at Temperance River State Park. Large-leafed aster, anyone?

A slow short walk to Palisade Head

2011-07-18T15:47:00.000-05:00

Palisade Head. The very name sounds dramatic and romantic, like nearby Castle Danger. The sheer red rhyolite cliffs tower over Lake Superior and provide an amazing view across the lake. 1000-foot ore boats sail past looking as small as dollhouse figurines. Peregrine falcons and rock climbers dance about the crevices of the cliff, and on a busy summer day, dozens of cars crowd the cliff-edge viewing area.

There are no crowds there today. With the Minnesota government shutdown still underway, now is the perfect time to take the slow short walk to the top of Palisade Head and have the North Shore's most dramatic shoreline all to yourself.

Palisade Head is part of Tettegouche State Park, so the gates off of Highway 61 are closed. Fortunately, there is a large parking area right off the highway, put there for cars pulling trailers to leave their trailer behind. The road to the top is narrow, winding and often steep, and trailers are not allowed. Now cars are not allowed either, and it's perfect for walking.

It's a ten-minute walk from the roadside parking lot past the gate to the top of Palisade Head. Along the way, you can pick out northern forest wildflowers like meadow rue and pyrola.

As the road reaches the crest of the hill, the view opens up out onto Lake Superior. At the same time, you'll see your first blueberries. The berries are still green. While this year's crop doesn't look real promising, some years you can fill gallon buckets of berries up here.

The view really is spectacular. Look east and you'll pick out Shovel Point; imagine the enormous flow of ashy rhyolite that once filled all the space between Palisade Head and Shovel Point before time, wind and water carried it away. Look past Shovel Point and you can pick out the triangular crests of the Sawtooth Mountains.

I have my own sentimental reasons for liking Palisade Head, memories of a full moon glittering on the vast watery palette, a cold and starlit May sky and the company of a beautiful woman.

Even after the shutdown ends, make your own slow short walk to Palisade Head.

See it for yourself
Palisade Head is at mile marker 56, just two miles east of Silver Bay.

Hiking and herring: Celebrate Lake Superior Day

2011-07-14T07:02:00.000-05:00

Happy Lake Superior Day! Time to head up the shore for a scenic hike, a dip in the lake, and some good fresh Lake Superior fish.

For about 20 years now, fans of Lake Superior have taken the third Sunday of July as Lake Superior Day to celebrate the world's largest freshwater lake. Fun educational events are scheduled up and down the North Shore. Events are great, but be sure to have your own Superior celebration.

Make your own celebration with a Superior hike

Carlton Peak is a challenging, fun hike you can take all the way from the shore of Lake Superior to one of the highest points and biggest views on the North Shore. Drive to the Highway 61 parking lots of Temperance River State Park, between Schroeder and Tofte at mile marker 80.3. You'll follow the Superior Hiking Trail up the amazing gorge of the Temperance River and then a long steady climb up to the stony knob of the peak. It's 3.5 miles in to the peak with 900 vertical feet to gain. The big views up and down the shore from the summit are the perfect reward for the long hike up.

You'll be hot when you get back to Highway 61, so finish your Lake Superior Day hike by dipping your toes...or even your whole body...in the lake itself. Although the park is closed to vehicles, you can still follow the trails down the west side of the river to the beach area.

Hungry for herring

Feeling refreshed...and hungry, head for Satellite's Country Inn about eight miles west of Temperance. This is a true mom-and-pop restaurant, with home-made pies on the plate and local history artifacts on the walls. But what makes this THE spot in western Cook County for Lake Superior Day are the fishcakes, made with local, fresh-caught lake herring.

Happy, happy Lake Superior Day!

The shutdown continues: Go to Twin Points

2011-07-11T15:53:00.000-05:00

Your own personal deck at the Twin Points boat launch.

While Minnesota's governor and legislature play Chicken with each other over the state budget, the state parks remain closed. If you're on the North Shore and looking for an outdoor experience, head for one of the public boat landings. My personal favorite on the shore is Twin Points.

Twin Points is just three miles past Gooseberry Falls State Park. It was the site of a family resort and has since been transferred to state ownership. Unlike the state parks, Twin Point remains open this month.

Three great features make this a must-do North Shore experience.

Great Feature 1: Iona's Beach

Red shingles dominate Iona's Beach

Take a short, scenic walk through a pine forest to this unique red shingle beach. It's been set aside as a state scientific and natural area, to protect the beach and the wetland behind it. The beach is composed entirely of rhyolite shingles, which have been stacked up by northeast storms. Iona Lind was the matriarch of the family that owned and operated Twin Points resort. After exploring the beach, head along the shoreline clockwise around the "twin" points back to your car, and watch for a deep, awesome crack in the rock.

Great Feature 2: Scenic boat launch

Even if you don't have a boat on a trailer, you can still enjoy the deck at the launch with its dramatic view back down the shoreline. Bring your own folding chair and pretend that you're North Shore royalty.

Great Feature 3: Gitchi Gami Trail

The Gitchi Gami bike trail heads through Twin Points pines

Bring your bike and explore the shore! Twin Points is in the middle of the longest contiguous section of the Gitchi Gami bike trail. From Twin Points, you can ride west into Gooseberry Falls State Park and check out the waterfalls, or ride east into Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. As far as I know, those parks are still open for access by bike or by foot.

How to get there

The entrance to Twin Points is at mile marker 42, three miles east of the entrance to Gooseberry Falls State Park. Look for a small brown sign that indicates public water access, then notice two large parking lots on the lake side of the highway. That's your turn. You'll see the large sign for Iona's Beach at the left-hand parking lot.

Note on necessities

While the entrance to Twin Points should be open, the outhouses may not be. Buy some gas and goodies in Beaver Bay or Two Harbors before you get to Twin Points and use the facilities at the store.

Heritage Days: A great North Shore festival this weekend

2011-07-07T13:24:00.000-05:00

Some North Shore towns seem to have a festival every weekend from May to October. Not to name names, but I'm thinking of a certain town that rhymes with "Brand Hooray".

No such festival overload in Two Harbors. The city on Agate Bay saves all their festing for one big weekend in July. This weekend, head for the Two Harbors Heritage Days Festival.

The festival runs from today through Sunday, July 10. The Minnesota Old West Society has already set up their camp by the depot. Friday is music and dancing all day, including a vocal performance with Lake County natives Andrew Gangestad and Nathan Herfindahl. Oh, and there's a Lutefisk Toss at 4:00.

The big day is Saturday, with the parade at 1:00, music all day at the Heritage Days Stage, and a special concert with the Duluth Superior Symphony Orchestra at the historic bandshell.

Take some time away from the festivities to walk around Lighthouse Point. Look for blooming butterwort in the open Lake Superior ledgerock. Head out the slender breakwater to the lighthouse. Make the most of this one great weekend in Two Harbors!

Book review: A View of the Lake

2011-07-06T15:00:00.000-05:00

For every 100 people who dream of leaving the big city (or the big suburbs) behind and moving to the North Shore, one or two people actually do it. That ratio has brought enough people to populate the North Shore with quite a cast of characters who have chosen to make this rough land their home.

In A View of the Lake, Beryl Singleton Bissell chronicles the leap of faith she and her husband Bill took in 1999 when they landed in quiet Schroeder, Minnesota, surprised owners of a run-down home they bought only for the view of Lake Superior.

Beryl and Bill immersed themselves in the community right away. I first met them when they were about four years into their new North Shore lives and Beryl was already busy and respected. In this book, Beryl shares how their community connections gradually unfolded.

Contemplating this transition into the North Shore community, Beryl writes, "What was it, I wondered, that brought a sense of belonging to place? ... Was it something we can make happen, or was it more tenuous, a gift?"

Belonging to the North Shore comes to them through neighborly interactions at the Schroeder Post Office, repeated hikes on their closest stretch of the Superior Hiking Trail, quiet writing retreats and epic adventures. I have a bit part in the book myself, as the guy who led them out onto the ice of Lake Superior.

If you've ever considered making a move like this, to the North Shore or Montana or Manhattan, this book is an important read. It reminded me of Rick Bass' Winter: Notes from Montana. In fact, Bissell's book would be strengthened with more of the chronological, narrative style of Bass' Winter. Bissell's short chapters are easy to read, but they keep the reader distant from the truly interesting underlying storylines.

The couple's move to the North Shore became complete when they purchased a family grave plot at the Schroeder cemetery (for the resident price of four dollars). It was final evidence of their determination "to make this our home 'till death do us part." The North Shore and its fans are better off now with these new "locals."

Sugarloaf: Despite the shutdown, your own North Shore state park

2011-07-05T16:27:00.000-05:00

Margie Menzies, amazing summer naturalist at Sugarloaf Cove

Minnesota State Parks are closed this week. And probably next week, too. If you're on the North Shore and you need your state park fix, head for Sugarloaf Cove. You'll find a hiking trail, quiet Lake Superior beaches, interpretive programs, and one super summer naturalist at the heart of it all.

Sugarloaf Cove is a state scientific and natural area; it's managed by a private nonprofit organization, so it's still open despite the state government shutdown.

Here are four reasons why you need to go to Sugarloaf Cove now:

It's open! You don't have to park along Highway 61 and climb over the barricades to reach Sugarloaf, just enter the parking lot at mile marker 73.3 west of Schroeder.
It has a great one-mile interpretive trail. Learn about historic log rafting, ancient geology. and current ecological restoration, then hang out on a quiet cobblestone beach.
Margie Menzies. Margie is the summer naturalist on site, and brings decades of natural history and education experience. She can answer nearly any question you might have about the North Shore, from boulders and basalt to black-throated blue warblers. Check out the Sugarloaf website for her regularly scheduled interpretive programs.
New path! Follow the new trail straight from the parking lot to the "nature center." It leads right into the woods and across a fancy new bridge.

New bridge at Sugarloaf

We'll get Gooseberry, Tettegouche and Cascade back soon enough. For now, check out the wonders of Sugarloaf Cove.

Minnesota state parks are closed: alternate North Shore campgrounds

2011-07-01T10:03:00.002-05:00

Yes, the terrific North Shore state parks are closed due to the Minnesota government shutdown. Even if you made reservations for that prime campsite a year ago for this holiday weekend, you can't use it. Plan A has gone down the drain.

Where else do you camp? You need a Plan B. For campsites right on Lake Superior, the only options left are private campgrounds and municipal campgrounds. They have already absorbed the overflow from the state parks and are full.

I recommend hitching up your sense of adventure and heading inland for a campsite in the Superior National Forest. To camp the North Shore this is the weekend you need a copy of my book, Camping the North Shore: A Guide to the 23 best campgrounds in Minnesota's spectacular Lake Superior region. You'll find detailed directions and descriptions for lovely campgrounds such as Crescent Lake, Two Island Lake, and Temperance River. If you're willing to go off the beaten path, you'll find free rustic campgrounds along trout streams, on the edge of the BWCA.

As you head through Duluth to the North Shore, pick up a copy of this book at Duluth Pack Store, the Bookstore at Fitgers, or any Holiday Store.

Plan B: Head up the Cramer Road
The lucky folks already camped at lovely Ninemile Lake won't like me for telling you this, but I'd recommend heading to that campground first. From Finland, head east and north on the Cramer Road (County Road 7). The Ninemile Lake campground is about ten miles out of Finland. If all 24 sites are full there, keep heading inland on County Road 7 to check out the rustic campgrounds at Harriet Lake and Hogback Lake. You might end up all the way inland at Kawishiwi Lake, but it will be lovely, quiet, and free.

The best North Shore Fourth of July

2011-06-30T10:39:00.000-05:00

Fourth of July in small-town America means parades and fireworks. If you're on the North Shore for the Fourth, head for Tofte for the best small-town celebration of all.

Sure, Two Harbors has fireworks and an ice cream social And Grand Marais will have fireworks and a parade. Even little Silver Bay and Grand Portage will have fireworks. But no one puts it all together like Tofte.

Here's your schedule for a great North Shore Fourth of July at Tofte:

7:45 AM Tofte Trek registration
Opens at Birch Grove for Tofte Trek 10K Wilderness Run (and hike)

9:30 AM Tofte Trek start
Run through the woods, get muddy, then jump in Lake Superior at the end.

11:00-5:00 Festival of fish, fun
At the Tofte Town Hall: challenge the climbing wall, enjoy live local music, eat some fish burgers, and take on your family in a water balloon battle.

1:00 PM Petite parade
This is a classic small-town parade. The route is short enough, sometimes they do it twice. Old cars, the classic fire truck, and lots of red, white and blue. Who knows what the Superior National Forest service will do this year?

Dusk: Fireworks and fear
Head for Tofte Town Park for the best viewing. There's a lot of excitement every year, especially after the big explosion in 2009 when everything went off at once.

A little bit about lupines

2011-06-27T16:09:00.000-05:00

It's lupine season on the North Shore. The fields of blue flowers along Highway 61 rival the golds and yellows of fall for the best colors along the scenic drive.

Many people I ask tell me that the lupines are their favorite North Shore flowers...even though the flowers aren't native. I guess that makes the lupine like a lot of us: outsiders who have tried to fit in and make the North Shore a little better for everyone.

As you enjoy these towers of flowers, here's a few fun facts to add to your enjoyment:

"Lupine", as any decent fan of Harry Potter knows, is related to the Latin word for wolf (get it, Professor Lupin...the kind-hearted werewolf?). It was once thought that lupines "wolfed" the nutrients out of the soil, hence the name.
The North Shore lupine are known scientifically as Lupinus polyphyllus. They are native to the western US coastal mountains
The best stands on Highway 61 are between Two Harbors and Gooseberry. They are often found along the roadside near older homesteads. There are also amazing fields of them between the Pigeon River and Thunder Bay.
Showing just how perfect they are for the North Shore, lupine do poorly in rich soil. Good thing we're mostly gravel, bedrock and clay up here!

Enjoy the display of colors...it's North Shore summer at its finest.

Lady's slippers and Larry Weber at Jay Cooke

2011-06-23T10:54:00.000-05:00

Heavy rains this week have returned the North Shore rivers to flood stage. Rains also damaged the road construction underway near Split Rock Lighthouse, slowing the traffic there. This is the weekend to stay closer to Duluth and explore the seasonal wonders of Jay Cooke State Park.

Showy Lady's Slipper, from www.maine.gov

Lady's slippers near and far
Wildflower fans come to Jay Cooke in early summer for the displays of lady's slippers. This week, there are yellow and showy lady's slippers blooming in the park, including some that are found right near the park office. Hike #1 from my book Hiking the North Shore, the 3.6 mile Silver Creek Trail, goes right past a huge stand of yellow lady's slipper. Stop at the brand-new park office for directions to the park's fabulous orchids.

The Swinging Bridge over a raging St. Louis River, 2008

The St. Louis River is running high after heavy rains, and should be thundering underneath the park's iconic Swinging Bridge by this weekend. But the river won't be the only noise there: park naturalist Kristine Hiller says that gray tree frogs are hanging out on the bridge stone pilings and calling.

Learn to fish, camp and birdwatch
Three interesting...and free...programs are on tap for this weekend in the park: on Friday, join the "I Can Fish" program from 1:00 to 3:00. On Sunday, there's "Camping 101" , also from 1:00 to 3:0.

Larry Weber

Early-risers, birdwatchers and nature lovers are in for a special treat. At 7:00 am Sunday morning, meet renown local naturalist Larry Weber at the campground bathhouse for a bird song walk. No binoculars needed, just listening.

How to get there
The park is located in Carlton, MN. If you're coming from the Twin Cities, take exit 235 off Interstate 35 and head through the towns of Carlton and Thompson on Hwy 210 to the park. From Duluth, take exit 239 and follow the signs to Carlton and the park.

Near collision in Duluth Ship Canal

2011-06-17T15:03:00.000-05:00

BBC Orinoco headed for the wall of the Duluth Ship Canal South Pier

BBC Orinoco after evasive maneuvers

The BBC Orinoco came uncomfortably close today to a collision with the South Pier Lighthouse. At the time, a thick fog was on the lake, and a strong current was running out of the Duluth Ship Canal. Even as the announcer from the Marine Museum was announcing the arrival of the boat, the boat itself could barely be seen in the fog.

As the ship's bow came out of the fog at 2:00pm, the ship was headed directly for the edge of the South Pier rather than for the middle of the Canal as most ships align. The ship turned in to the Canal and away from the lighthouse and pier head at the last moment, appearing to miss by a few yards.

BBC Orinoco in Duluth Ship Canal after narrowly missing South Pier

The BBC Orinoco had left Thunder Bay yesterday and will load beet pulp pellets in Duluth, according to Duluth Shipping News.

The current at the mouth of the Duluth Ship Canal has been noted and feared by Great Lakes navigators for over a century. When the Mataafa collided with the piers in 1905, partial blame was placed on the currents. Lighthouses stand at the end of both the South and North piers to help ensure safe passage into the piers.

Incidentally, it appears that the fog horn located in the South Pier lighthouse was not operating at the time.

A super solstice weekend in Grand Marais

2011-06-16T09:24:00.000-05:00

Grand Marais is the place to be this weekend. Northern evenings are long and the nights are short. Duluth and Two Harbors will be packed with marathon runners, so head farther up the shore for a classic North Shore experience with elbow room

This weekend is the 14th Annual Wooden Boat Show at North House Folk School. The show celebrates the romance and history of wooden boats. From noon on Friday to 3:00 pm on Sunday, a fleet of wooden kayaks, canoes, scows, and more will be on display at the Folk School campus. There's a Community of Crafters, a contra dance, and a Lake Superior Chowder Experience. Some of the coolest courses have already started, like "Handcrafting a Northwoods Paddle," but you can still learn the games of kubb, lacrosse, and deadfish polo. For more information, visit the North House website.

Fire Dragon, from http://www.oldwadenasociety.blogspot.com/

Also at North House this weekend is the Summer Solstice Pageant, with the Good Harbor Hill Players. Every solstice, both summer and winter, creative Grand Marais folks put on a great show mixing North Shore culture with current events and local inside jokes.

For the full weekend experience, grab a campsite at the Grand Marais municipal campground right next door to the North House campus. This campground is featured in my book Camping the North Shore as one of the area's best. As of this morning, they still have tent and RV sites open for the weekend. Call them at (800) 998-0959 or (218) 387-1712 to reserve your spot.

Insider's guide to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park

2011-06-13T21:23:00.000-05:00

Split Rock Lighthouse, November 10, 2009

Split Rock Lighthouse is a towering beacon over Lake Superior and an icon for the state of Minnesota. For many people, the lighthouse is the North Shore. The state park that surrounds the lighthouse, however, is a hidden gem that only some visitors enter and only very few truly explore.

The view from Split Rock Lighthouse

If you stand with the crowds around the base of Split Rock Lighthouse, you can't help but notice and enjoy the view down the shore. One rugged cove leads to a steep rocky point, and then another and another, as far as you can see. That entire landscape is within the boundaries of Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, and you can hike, camp or even bike through the heart of it.

THE BEST CAMPING ON THE NORTH SHORE
This is my personal opinion, though I've heard from many people who feel the same way: the best place to camp on the North Shore if you want real quiet, real privacy and real adventure is the cart-in campground at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. Twenty campsites are scattered through the woods and along the shoreline. Each site comes with its own cart, which you can use to roll your camping equipment from the parking lot to your private campsite.

Fourteen of the sites can be reserved in advance through the Minnesota DNR's reservation system. Virtually the entire summer of 2011 is already reserved.

Insider's tip: Six sites are available first-come, first served. I've found that if you arrive before 10:00 am on a Tuesday or Wednesday, you should be able to get one of those sites; stop at the park office to get on a waiting list.

Since sites can be reserved 365 days in advance, now is the time to reserve your top pick for the summer of 2012.

SECLUDED LAKE SUPERIOR BEACHES
Hanging out on your own rocky beach, feeling the splash of cool waves, enjoying a private picnic by the lake shore...that's quintessential North Shore. And you can have it in Split Rock. There are at least eight separate beaches in the park, ranging from the broad, steep beach at Little Two Harbors next to the Picnic Area to the remote beach in Crazy Bay.

Unnamed beach below Day Hill

Insider's tip: I just discovered a new beach this weekend, a small cobblestone beach with a great view of the lighthouse. Head out the back door of the Trail Center building in the park, and walk out across the main Little Two Harbors Trail. Follow a little unmarked trail that seems to lead to a cliff edge. This opens up to a great ledge rock shoreline full of splash pools. Head up the shore toward the lighthouse, which looms above. You'll find a gravel beach that's about 100 yards long and 10 yards wide.

GITCHI GAMI BIKE TRAIL
Split Rock Lighthouse State Park is at the midpoint of the longest stretch of completed trail of the Gitchi Gami State Trail. You can ride west about seven miles to Gooseberry Falls State Park or seven miles east to the quaint town of Beaver Bay.

Iona's Beach

Insider's tip: This is not an easy bike trail. There are steep hills and sharp curves. You may have to leave your toddlers on training wheels at home. I recommend going west to Gooseberry State Park and planning to stop at Iona's Beach about halfway there. Iona's Beach is a state Scientific and Natural Area and was set aside to protect its unique red shingle beach.

Next time you're on the Shore, take the time to explore this hidden gem of a state park. You'll be glad you stopped by.

Big, free day at Split Rock Lighthouse

2011-06-09T11:29:00.002-05:00

Saturday, June 11, is the annual open house at all Minnesota State Parks. That means all one-day vehicle permits are free. Perfect! Now you can join me for a great guided hike Saturday at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.

Most North Shore state parks have trails and landmarks that are open only to those with vehicle permits. This weekend, use this opportunity to explore these trails and landmarks for free.

At Gooseberry Falls State Park, the open house lets you visit the whole lakeshore area with its dramatic stone buildings and open, rocky Picnic Flow. At Tettegouche State Park, the free vehicle permit will let you easily access the High Falls of the Baptism River. At Cascade River State Park, Saturday's free permit gets you access to the lakeshore picnic area and a mile of ledgerock walking.

See Split Rock's Lighthouse and take a guided hike

This Saturday's open house gets you free admission not only to the state parks but also to Split Rock Lighthouse itself. So make day of it in Split Rock!

Andrew Slade atop Day Hill, with lighthouse in background

I'll be guiding a pleasant hike during the open house. Meet me at the Split Rock Lighthouse State Park Trail Center at 10:00am Saturday. We're going on a 2.6-mile hike on the Little Two Harbors and Day Hill trails. We'll stop at secluded beaches and scamper to the top of Day Hill, where a mysterious stone fireplace frames dramatic lake views. The hike will take about two hours.

After the hike, come to the Lighthouse for a free tour. I'll be signing copies of my new book, Hiking the North Shore, at the museum store there from 1:00 to 3:00pm.

Eats and treats after the trail
The North Shore's newest dining option just opened up...right at Split Rock Lighthouse! The folks from Splashing Rock Restaurant at Grand Superior Lodge have opened the Third Rock Deli, serving sandwiches, wraps and salads.

Travel note: construction on Highway 61 is in full throttle now near Split Rock. Expect delays, either if you're driving through or just stopping at the park.

Four random facts about Bunchberry

2011-06-08T15:14:00.000-05:00

The bunchberry are blooming along the North Shore. With their simple, bold flowers and symmetrical leaves, they are one of the most common and easiest to identify of all flowers.

Like many wildflowers, this one has lots of factoids concerning its name, its ecology and even its anatomy. You can impress your hiking companions with just one of these four random facts. By the time you get all four out, they'll think you're a genius.

Random fact #1: The name bunchberry refers to the tight "bunch" of orange-colored berries that ripen later in summer.

Random fact #2: A common local name for the flower is "Canada dogwood." In fact, that's a literal translation of the scientific name Cornus canadensis.

Random Fact #3: The beautiful white "petals" aren't actually petals. Instead, they are modified leaves that surround and draw attention to the actual flowers, which are very small and greenish yellow. Each one of those little flowers could ripen into one of the orange berries.

Random Fact #4: The berries are popular with veeries and vireos.

Any questions?

Hike Gooseberry, Eat Rustic

2011-06-02T12:54:00.001-05:00

Spring has sprung on the North Shore! The woods are filling with wildflowers, the hiking trails are dry after the spring mud season, and the crush of summer tourists has not yet begun. It's a great time to hit the North Shore state parks. Here's what to do this weekend on the Shore:

On Saturday, come to Gooseberry Falls State Park. (From the town of Two Harbors, follow State Highway 61 northeast approximately 13 miles to the park.) Starting from the Visitor Center, take the 2.0 mile Gitchi Gummi Trail through greening birch forests to the scenic overlook above the mouth of the Gooseberry River. Enjoy the new decks hanging over the lake with big views up and down the shore (pictured above). Pull out your snack and savor the sights.

After your short trek, hike back to the Visitor Center for my 12:00 noon program in the theater. I'll be talking about "Hiking the North Shore," with recommendations for more great day hikes along the shore. I'll be signing books in the park store from 1:00 to 3:00 in the afternoon.

When you're done at the park, stop at the Rustic Inn in Castle Danger for pie or a late lunch. I've had their North Shore Crumble a few times lately, but their chocolate (pictured) and custard pies are delicious, too.

North Shore factoids right from the source

2011-06-01T12:08:00.005-05:00

Our own North Shore is the center of the universe right now for large lake researchers from around the world. Duluth's harborfront convention center is full of tweedy science types from across the U.S. and Canada, plus China, Africa, Russia and more. It's the annual conference of the International Association for Great Lakes Research.

What's in it for fans of the North Shore? Some fascinating tidbits, to be sure. I attend a press conference and checked out the conference yesterday as a member of the media (and the only blogger, I believe).

Among the hundreds of presentations and posters, I'm finding a few digestible if depressing factoids:

A typical North Shore stream carries 28-42 grams of the toxicant mercury into Lake Superior every year, primarily during spring run-off.
The peak of spring run-off on Lake Superior streams is coming 9-13 days earlier in the spring than it did 50 years ago.
Lake herring (or cisco) is the dominant fish in Lake Superior by biomass. In other words, if you took all the fish in the lake out and weighed them, the heaviest pile would be the herring.
Minnesota has 11,877 "Great Lakes jobs." Wisconsin has 173,969.

I'm going to review the abstracts and post a few more tidbits as I find them. Researchers are finding out a lot about Lake Superior, and it's great to hear it right from the source.

The fog flowers of the North Shore

2011-05-30T17:17:00.000-05:00

Tall Lungwort, Piedmont Ski Trail, Duluth

It's been a cold and foggy spring by the shores of Lake Superior. That's been tough on vegetable gardens and bike stores. But it's been great for at least one perfect North Shore wildflower. A flower that NEEDS the cold. It NEEDS the fog.

If you NEED some inspiration to get out and explore the foggy North Shore, look no farther than the tall lungwort, a.k.a. northern bluebells.

Tall lungwort (Mertensia paniculata) is found all around the cool, moist shores of Lake Superior...and nowhere else in the eastern United States. The only other place it's found in the US is in the western states, on the cooler, wetter sides of the mountains there.

Tall Lungwort, Tettegouche State Park

Ecologists call these North Shore flowers a "disjunct" population, separated from the main group. Lake Superior provides not only the cool air but also the moisture. If you're a fan of The West and mountains, here's a bit of the western Rocky Mountains right here for you.

It seems like every other wildflower on the North Shore is running at least a week late in the blooming calendar. Not this flower; it's right on time.

Imagine those first little green growths of lungwort emerging from the damp North Shore soil, sensing cold and fog and saying, in its little plant voice, "PERFECT! Let's grow."

Inspired? Might as well make the best of this North Shore fog and cold, just like this flower does. Poke your head out the door and into the fog and just say, "PERFECT!"

The 9 best hiking shoes for your North Shore treks

2011-05-26T10:28:00.014-05:00

Finally the snow has melted, and a North Shore guy's or gal's eyes turn to hiking. And unless you're a masochist, every hiker needs comfortable boots. My fellow adventurers over at UpNorthica suggested swapping some guest blog postings. I wrote a piece about ski-in camping on the North Shore. And in exchange, they wrote this review on hiking shoes. Here's UpNorthica's take on the best day hike boots around. They love "best-of" lists so much, they made three of them!

THE 9 BEST HIKING SHOES, by Pam Wright, UpNorthica

Taking a day hike along the Kadunce River this summer? Want to scramble to the top of Carlton Peak? If you're planning to hike the north shore this year, chances are you'll run into wet, rocky, or hilly terrain. Here's our hot list of choices for light-hikers that should suit your needs for the coming season.

MEN'S SHOES

Men's Light
NEW Kayland Crosser Mesh

Why you'll dig 'em: Head deep into the jack pine with these light hikers. Lots of breathable mesh combined with a light insole keeps weight to a minimum.
Weight: 14.4 oz. Construction: 3D mesh microfiber with flat mesh lining. Molded EVA midsole with nylon anti-torsion shank and toe protection. MSRP: $99.95

Men's Waterproof
NEW Keen Alamosa WP

Why you'll dig them: While the mist is coming down, keep your feet dry. Made of completely waterproof material that breathes, so you don't have hot spots at the end of the day.
Weight: 16.81 oz. Construction: KEEN.DRY(tm) Waterproof breathable membrane and nubuck leather upper with drop-in EVA insert. Multi-directional 4mm lugs for traction. MSRP: $110.00

Men's Supportive
NEW Garmont Sticky Boulder
Why you'll dig 'em: Bouldering anyone? Provide sturdy protection in between that rock and a hard place, thanks to durable traction and stability on uneven surfaces. Bootie-style construction safeguards against ankle rolls. Weight: 16.4 oz. Construction: Water repellent suede with Vibram Q811 Outsole. MSRP: $114.95

WOMEN'S SHOES

Women's Light
NEW Ahnu Sequoia
Why you'll dig 'em: You'll hardly notice these shoes as you hike for miles. Breathable mesh keeps the weight to a minimum. Weight: 11.4 oz. Construction: Breathable mesh upper with dual-density EVA. Ahnu's Numentum(tm) technology provides proper foot biomechanics. Avert bruising on rocky surfaces with the forefoot protection plate. MSRP: $100.00

Women's Waterproof
NEW Merrell Siren Sport

Why you'll dig 'em: Stay dry when the afternoon shower hits 2 miles from the trailhead. Waterproof membrane keeps water out, but lets the air in. Outsole features 5 mm lugs to keep you stable while clambering over wet roots. Weight: 23 oz. Construction: Synthetic leather and mesh upper. Waterproof, breathable membrane. Lining is treated with Aegis(r) antimicrobial solution. Midsole cushioning styled for women's needs. 5 mm lugs provide grip. MSRP: $110.00

Women's Supportive
Oboz Contour
Why you'll dig 'em: Tackle the harder topography with solid cushioning. The BFit Deluxe Insole is constructed of three densities of foam to protect feet. The EVA footbed maintains shape overtime providing additional comfort with two smaller, softer pockets of EVA under heel and forefoot. The shaped heel cup keeps your feet from shifting. Weight: 12.2 oz. Construction: Nubuck leather and high abrasion textile fabric upper. Dual-densities of EVA with BFit Deluxe Insole. Forefoot ESS sheet protects foot from bruising on uneven surfaces. MSRP: $110.00

KIDS'S SHOES

Kid's Light
NEW Keen Alamosa
Why you'll dig them: Explore every bend along the river with these light weight hikers. Quick lace system reduces tripping hazards. Weight: 9 oz. Construction: Water resistant leather and mesh uppers. MSRP: $55.00

Kid's Waterproof
Timberland Hypertrail Oxford
Why you'll dig 'em: Kids inevitably seem to end up wet. Let them scurry over slippery rocks with this waterproof shoe. Gore-Tex waterproof membrane keeps toes dry. Engage in massive mud fights, thanks to a stain-resistant coating. Weight: 9 oz. Construction: Nubuck leather and suede upper with Gore-Tex(r) membrane for waterproofness. EVA footbead provides cushion. SplashBlaster(tm) coating resists stains. MSRP: $65.00

Kid's Supportive
Salomon Trax
Why you'll dig 'em: Slither down ravines or hike a dry creek bed. Padded heel, collar and tongue protects and provides comfort, alleviating pressure and abrasion. Weight: 12.5 oz. Construction: Suede leather with nylon mesh for breathability. EVA midsole absorbs shock and provides cushion. Toe caps protect tootsies from stubs. Quick lace system makes it easy for kids to slip shoes on and off quickly. MSRP: $60.00

Book Review: Safe from the Sea, by Peter Geye

2011-05-22T09:53:00.000-05:00

The North East Minnesota Books Award winners were announced last week, and the winner for fiction is....the North Shore and Lake Superior!!

Actually, it was the debut novel of Peter Geye, Safe from the Sea. Ostensibly the story of reconciliation between father and son, the real star of the book is ominous Lake Superior and the colorful communities and people that cling to the lake's edges.

This is a short novel sprinkled with cultural references familiar to anyone who's spent some time in Duluth and on the North Shore. The names have been changed, but you can spend time at the Anchor Bar (transplanted to Canal Park), the Blue Water Cafe, Grand Marais itself (known here as "Gunflint", at the base of the "Brule Trail."), and the varied neighborhoods of Duluth's hillside.

The central story concerns Olaf, the aged survivor of a famous Lake Superior shipwreck, and his son Noah, who has moved to Boston and runs an antique map business. One of only three survivors, Olaf's life had been in decline ever since the wreck, threatening his family and his health. But he can't escape the pull of the lake, serving on the lakers for two more decades, never fully telling his story of the shipwreck.

Noah meanwhile has not become fully a man himself. This generation gap between hard-working immigrant and class-conscious son has been plumbed to great depth by Garrison Keillor for comic effect, but this is the first time I've seen it done for northeastern Minnesota and with such serious intent.

Author Peter Geye, 2/10/2010

The language is lovely, and some perfectly crafted and luminous sentences emerge from the page like a Lake Superior agate shows through cobblestones on the beach. The storyline is predictable; the book is even meant to be cataloged in libraries under "Prodigal Son (Parable)-Fiction." Yet the predictability makes it easier to follow the characters and their evolution.

The book could have been strengthened in two ways. One would have been to have a knowledgeable copy editor catch what were to me glaring factual mistakes. The doomed ship would not have been carrying "twelve tons" of taconite, as it often is stated, but twelve thousand.

Second, it could have been an even better novella than a novel; there is a whole level of extraneous detail, from the press of a waitress' apron to a fascination with cinnamon rolls. Chop out the extra detail, focus on the main storyline, and this would be one tight novella.

Thanks to the folks at the North East Minnesota Book Awards for bringing attention to this book. It is obviously the product of love and admiration for Lake Superior, the North Shore, and the unique qualities of this region.

Marsh marigolds: An appreciation

2011-05-19T16:37:00.000-05:00

The little creeks and the ditches of the North Shore are filling up with the big yellow burst of marsh marigolds. For most of us unable to hike deep into the woods, these are the first real noticeable blooms of spring.

I used to try to charm my wife with a small bud vase of two or three marsh marigold blooms, if I could find enough of them in one place to pluck a few. But then I learned that some Native Americans used marsh marigold as a protection against love charms. Oops.

Marsh marigold is actually not a marigold, but a member of the buttercup family. Their natural habitat on the North Shore are the little unnamed creeks that dry up in the summer but run like clear music in the spring. They are common in roadside ditches along Highway 61, as long as it's moving water and not a stagnant pool.

Here are some other names for marsh marigolds in England: May Blobs, Mollyblobs, Pollyblobs, Horse Blob, Water Blobs, Water Bubbles, Gollins and the Publican. And in North America, it can go by: Cowslip, Cowflock, Kingcup, Buttercup, Populage des Marais, Soucis d'Eau.

I just call them lovely. If not love charming.

Go soon to see the "flowers of the day"

2011-05-17T11:32:00.000-05:00

Hepatica on the Superior Hiking Trail in western Duluth, 5/15/2011

The spring ephemerals are blooming in the woods of the North Shore. Ephemeral is a lovely word from the Greek words for "of the day." It means short-lived, and these flowers pack a lot of living into just a very few days.

Along the Superior Hiking Trail, in the Bardon Peak area of western Duluth off Skyline Drive, there is a great two miles of trail leading through the heart of an old-growth northern hardwood forest.

Bloodroot along the Superior Hiking Trail in western Duluth, 5/15/2011

There is a very brief window of opportunity for the flowers there: the ground must be thawed, and there must be plenty of sunshine. "Spring ephemerals" are a small group of flowers that carry out virtually their entire annual life cycle in those few weeks. In that group are bloodroot, hepatica, wood anemone, and spring beauty.

Well, the ground is thawed, and thanks to our long winter there are very few leaves on the trees to block the sun. So this is the time to head to your favorite stretch of maple forest and check out the show.

Go see for yourself
This is Hike 3 in our new book Hiking the North Shore.

To reach the Bardon Peak trail, take Skyline Drive west from I-35 past Spirit Mountain. It's 2.5 miles to the Magney Ski Trail parking area. The Superior Hiking Trail leads from the near corner of the parking lot. Take a right at the first junction and follow the signs for Bardon Peak. After a scenic run across a creek and through a pine forest, the trail crosses Skyline Drive and enters the old-growth maple forest. It's 1.3 miles total to the big viewpoints of Bardon Peak. You can either continue for a total of 3.3 miles to Elys Peak or turn around here.

Bloodroot and hepatic were blooming a few days ago, but very soon the lovely large-flowered trillium will be blooming too. Get out there and enjoy!

Climb Split Rock's Day Hill with me June 11

2011-05-16T11:33:00.000-05:00

It's one of the North Shore's best viewpoints. It's just a short hike in along decent trails. And chances are, you've never been there. But you can join me on June 11th for a hike to the top.

Right in the heart of Split Rock Lighthouse State Park is Day Hill, named after the Duluthian Frank Day. It's a classic anorthosite knob, like Carlton Peak and Mount Trudee. The top is almost 250 feet above Lake Superior, so you're looking down on the entire park shoreline, including Split Rock Lighthouse, which looks tiny but dramatic about a mile away.

Day Hill is famous for its lone fireplace. Who built this stone masterpiece atop the tall hill? Was it Frank Day, trying to woo his bride? A good historical mystery to be teased out. Maybe I'll have an answer by June 11th!

To reach Day Hill, start at the park's trail center parking area. For this you will need to have a state park vehicle permit. From the trail center, follow the Hiking Club Trail signs along the beach of Little Two Harbors, through the cart-in campground, and up to the junction with the paved Gitchi Gami bike trail. From that junction, a signed spur trail leads up Day Hill.

The trails are dry and ready for hiking. On Saturday, June 11, I'll meet all interested hikers at 10:00 at the Trail Center parking lot and we'll loop around Day Hill and then reach the summit. That afternoon, from 1:00 to 3:00, I'll be signing copies of Hiking the North Shore at the lighthouse gift shop.

What's your North Shore neighborhood?

2011-05-10T10:28:00.000-05:00

It's spring on the North Shore, and we're headed outdoors for fun and relaxation, not just to shovel snow. After months of being closed up inside, we are exploring our neighborhoods again, and reconnecting with our neighbors...beyond the neighborly niceties of clearing sidewalks and starting cars.

My family is lucky enough to have a Duluth city park and Lake Superior in our backyard. We have neighbors we really only know from seeing them on the lake shore, walking on the beach. With the first decent days of beach walking, we are excited to see each other and catch up on a winter's full of stories as we stroll.

On a lovely evening this weekend, Sally and I ran into our neighbors Jan and Warren on the beach. We swapped travel tales of Arizona and Paris and talked baseball and birds.

Where is your North Shore neighborhood? Where do you meet and visit with your Lake Superior friends? Is it a scenic state park campground? Is it strolling on the Gitchi Gami bike trail? Or is it maybe a favorite local restaurant, where it's still mostly "locals" now before the waves of summer visitors?

Lake Superior draws us out of the house and pulls us together. Not bad work for a bunch of water!

Sparky's "Daffy Ducks"

2011-05-09T10:08:00.000-05:00

Daffy Duck Displays from Sparky Stensaas on Vimeo.

Leave it to Mark "Sparky" Stensaas to find great footage and fine stories about North Shore natural history. And thank goodness for telescopic lenses.

Sparky caught some great action this spring. Diving ducks have goofy, elaborate courtship rituals, but the shows are for the females, not the birdwatcher. Generally the show is so far away from shore, the average person never sees them.

The video shows hooded mergansers doing a bizarre head pump, common goldeneyes doing a ballerina-like neck stretch, and three frenetic male common mergansers trying to out-goofy each other in the presence of one disinterested female.

Thanks for catching the show, Sparky!

Get thee to the Gunflint

2011-05-04T15:45:00.000-05:00

This weekend is the Gunflint Green-Up. Head on up into the canoe country from Grand Marais and help this scenic and wild area recover from the Ham Lake fire of May, 2007.

The Gunflint Green-up started as a large-scale tree planting program after the wildfire, but has turned into a full-scale celebration of spring and renewal on the Gunflint Trail.

Events this year include an interpretive walk, a presentation on the history of the PADW railroad and the Paulson Mine, music and dancing under the Big Top, and of course tree planting.

Preregistration is requested. While tree planting is free, you'll want to join the food and festivities and even get a t-shirt for the full package cost of $35. The wonderful lodges and resorts on the Gunflint Trail have great overnight packages as well.

A bit more about the Western Waterfront Trail

2011-05-03T12:00:00.002-05:00

In my post yesterday, I neglected to mention Indian Point campground (or "campgrounds," as the sign at the entrance reads). The Western Waterfront Trail curves around Indian Point, and the campground is very visible.Indian Point has a lot of Duluth history to it. It was the equivalent of today's Bayfront Park, with picnics and musical performances.

However, this one historical reference made my skin crawl a bit:

"A distinctive feature of this camp site is its bathing beach on upper St. Louis bay where autoists, dusty from the day's travel, may indulge in a refreshing dip."
(Duluth News-Tribune, May 22, 1921)

Since the 1920s, the waters of the St. Louis have turned a bit less refreshing. Fortunately, drivers don't get quite as dusty, either, what with roofs on cars now.

Searching for Spring in West Duluth

2011-05-02T15:41:00.003-05:00

If you really need a spring walk and you'd like to see some real spring birds, maybe some real spring flowers, and open water, head for Duluth's Western Waterfront Trail. It's one of my favorite spring walks, even when it's 40 degrees and snowing in May like it was yesterday.

The Western Waterfront Trail runs for over three miles along the shore of the St. Louis River, connecting the neighborhoods of West Duluth and Riverside. It's a wide trail, built strong enough for biking on its hard gravel surface.

Bring your good binoculars. The St. Louis River here is a web of channels and backwaters, all attracting different waterfowl and migrating mystery birds. Yesterday I saw lesser scaup, hooded mergansers, and ringneck ducks.

I like to start the trail at its eastern end, off 63rd Avenue West. Depending on your freeway exit, you can get to 63rd Avenue West off of Grand Ave. or off of Central Avenue and Raleigh St. From 63rd and Raleigh, it's another 0.5 miles to, basically, the end of the road. Look for the trail as it crosses the Avenue, and park near the trail. For more detailed directions and a trail map, pick up a copy of my new book, Hiking the North Shore (see blog sidebar to order).

Not much spring to report, however, besides the birds on the river.

The wild leeks had their onion-smelly leaves up, and the buds were swelling on the willow trees. Kingsbury Creek was running high under the metal bridge. The trail is drier than most woodland trails are now and would make for a great hike for a family or sweeties holding hands.

A pirate ship on Lake Superior

2011-04-29T09:20:00.002-05:00

It was a scene right out of Pirates of the Caribbean. The efficient crew of the salty ship left the harbor at first light and was seen sailing away into the sunrise. At 6:00 AM today, the BBC Orinoco slipped through the Duluth Lift Bridge and headed out to safety. No pirate attacks in this harbor.

The ship was the BBC Orinoco, and the crew had good reason to fear pirates...they and their good ship were attacked by pirates just six months ago, as they sailed the Arabian Sea.

It's a great story. Pirates boarded the vessel. The crew retreated to their onboard citadel, where they were safe from the pirates, and called the Indian Navy. The Navy sent in commandos, rousted the pirates, and the ship was free to continue.

Here's a quote from Pakistan Defence:
At daybreak, the naval forces, which had arrived at the scene, commenced their actions. MARCOS slithered onto the merchant ship from a Sea King helicopter and took the crew, who were locked in compartments, to safety, while the helicopter provided air borne fire support. The merchantman was boarded by naval personnel and a thorough search is currently in progress. The ship will set course for its destination once the boarding party reports all clear. Although no pirates remain onboard, implements such as crow bar, knives etc., were found aboard the ship.

Plus the ship just drips with international intrigue. It's registered in Antigua. The crew is from the Ukraine and the Phillipines. It's owned by Germans. The name Orinoco is a river in Venezuela and Colombia, and is the subject of song from Irish singer Enya.

Godspeed, Orinoco!

Summer is on the way...from Arizona

2011-04-28T10:19:00.000-05:00

Yes, it seems like winter is here to stay. People are still skiing on North Shore ski trails. Dry, fresh snow just fell on Sawbill Lake. But I can tell you, summer is happening, only it's a thousand miles away.

I just got back from a week in Arizona, in a little town north of Phoenix. We did some hiking and some hanging out by the pool. Temps were in the high 80s every day. The cacti were blooming like wild. The ocotillo plant, normally a dried-up stick of a shrub, was covered in green leaves and blooming a flush of orange-red flowers.

The biggest blooms were on the saguaro. Saguaro are those super-tall cacti with the arms sticking out and up. They define the Sonoran Desert sort of like how the white pine define the North Woods.

So North Shore folks who have had bit too much winter, take heart. The seasons are changing; the earth is tilting toward the sun. The maple woods will fill with spring beauty. The loons will return to our lakes. Sometime before August, you'll actually feel hot.

Summer is on the way.

Hike Gooseberry Falls...Five falls in one loop

2011-04-18T14:36:00.001-05:00

North Shore waterfalls are raging with spring melt right now...it's a great time to head to Gooseberry Falls for a hike!

One of the very best waterfall hikes in my new book Hiking the North Shore is the Five Falls Loop at Gooseberry. It's a 3.0 mile hike that I rate as moderately difficult. The loop takes you from the park visitor center up the west side of the river and down the east side. You get a great look at four falls: 1) Lower Falls, 2) Middle Falls (the most popular tourist destination), 3) Upper Falls (pictured above), and 4) Fifth Falls.

Where's Fourth Falls? Hidden somewhere below Fifth Falls.

Go for a hike!
Gooseberry Falls State Park is 13 miles northeast of Two Harbors on Minnesota Highway 61. For this hike, park at the free main visitor center and wayside rest parking lot. Stop at the park office for a map and directions.

The hike starts at the park office and heads up under the Highway 61 bridge. Along the west side of the river, you'll be hiking on a fairly rough trail that cuts close to the river bank. There's a nice log-sided trail shelter along the way. You'll follow a tremendous bridge across the gorge of the Gooseberry River just upstream from Fifth Falls, then you'll be on the Superior Hiking Trail back down to Highway 61.

Once you cross back under the highway bridge, you'll follow the park's Falls View Trail in a grand circle of the three main falls, with sweeping views from above and below.

A lovely hike on a lovely trail, especially when the spring run-off is raging!

North Shore rivers are at their peak!

2011-04-15T12:39:00.000-05:00

North Shore rivers are still running high. It's a great time to visit your favorite waterfall and see what it looks like in full flood.

The peak flow time on North Shore rivers moves from Duluth up the shore. Above is First Falls, on the Knife River, from a few days ago just after the ice went out. Remote gauges show that the run-off peaked on April 10. , the day after I was there. It's easy to visit this falls, just pull off the Highway 61 Expressway and turn into the wayside rest area. You'll hear the falls upstream about 60 yards, and there's even a paved walkway to a viewing area.

The Sucker River seems to have hit its peak a few days ago and is starting to come down again. But when I was there on Tuesday afternoon, a good four miles upstream from Lake Superior, it was running so high a good kayaker could have paddled down it. Normally this stretch (just off Ryan Road) is just a trickle.

Moving up the shore, stream gauges seem to show that the Poplar River is at or near its peak. But just to be sure, check out this video showing the Cascade River two days ago:

Check out a North Shore river this weekend!

North Shore waterfalls on the web

2011-04-11T14:04:00.001-05:00

Right now, all that snow that fell onto North Shore ski trails is melting fast and flooding down to Lake Superior, turning trickles into torrents and making the great waterfalls in our North Shore state parks even greater.

If you'd like to track just how much water is raging down the North Shore streams, you can check out these web links to real-time gauges on select streams.You'll see a graph looking something like this, the hydrograph for the St. Louis River over the last two weeks.

St. Louis River (good data for the raging gorge in Jay Cooke State Park)
Knife River (good data for First and Second Falls along the Superior Hiking Trail)
Baptism River (good data for High Falls in Tettegouche)
Poplar River (a good stand-in for the waterfall-laced Cascade River just east of the Poplar)
Pigeon River (good data for the dramatic High Falls of the Pigeon, highest falls in Minnesota)

Enjoy! And stay safe out there!

Amazing Lake Superior bird story

2011-04-05T19:26:00.000-05:00

If you are a nature geek like me and if you love Lake Superior like I do, there isn't a better story to hear than this one from Sparky Stensaas and Lake Superior Magazine.

It's an amazing combination of birdwatching and shipping, of citizen science and Lake Superior geography. From the discovery made by a Duluth remodeler and his elderly client to the pages of Audubon magazine. The crux of it is Captain J.P. "Perk" Perkins, an avid birdwatcher and ship captain who set up a miniature forest on the deck of his laker and monitored the birds that found refuge there as they crossed Lake Superior. Along the way, he discovers unknown migration flyways and rewrites Midwest ornithology.

Sparky is a great naturalist and photographer, with an ear for a great story. I had heard parts of this discovery in the past, and am so glad Sparky was able to put all the pieces together.

First stretch of Superior Hiking Trail open for summer!

2011-04-04T18:02:00.000-05:00

Although most of the hiking trails of the North Shore are still buried under feet of snow, one stretch of the Superior Hiking Trail is clear and ready for hiking. The Downtown Lakewalk, one of 50 day hikes featured in my new book Hiking the North Shore, is open and mostly dry for walkers along its whole length.

From its trailhead at the Marine Museum all the way to Leif Erickson Park the Lakewalk is also the route of the Superior Hiking Trail. For current conditions on the SHT, check the website of the Superior Hiking Trail Association. It's going to be a late spring on the trail, with lovely muddy waterfalls lasting well into May. Stretch out your legs on Duluth's Lakewalk and get ready for hiking!

Minnesota North Shore now "Northwest"

2011-04-01T07:54:00.001-05:00

In a ceremony held today at the Minnesota-Ontario border at the Pigeon River, Minnesota and Ontario officials formally signed off on the historic "Real North Shore" treaty, which designates the Ontario shore of Lake Superior as "The North Shore" and the Minnesota shore as "The Northwest Shore."

Officials cited the geographic reality that has been ignored for a long time. The Minnesota shore of Lake Superior really is on the northwest side of the lake. "This historic moment will finally clear up centuries of confusion," said David Thompson, Jr. "Minnesotans never knew if they went north or east to Grand Marais. Now they'll do both."

Secretary of State Danielle Webster agreed that the move will solve long-standing confusion. "Anyone who has been past Thunder Bay knows that the true rugged and wild North Shore starts around Nipigon."

Representatives of Minnesota businesses have expressed concern about the plan. Explore Minnesota's Alex Ashburton said that over forty tourism-related businesses now called "North Shore" will either have to relocate to Ontario or change their names. Tofte's only grocery store and liquor, formerly known as North Shore Market, has already changed their name to "Northwest Nibbles and Nips."

In a related legal process, Hawaii's North Shore surfing area, the North Shore neighborhoods of greater Chicago and Boston, and Vancouver, BC's North Shore ski region are pursuing a class action lawsuit seeking to overturn the agreement.

The Presque Isle heads out...two boats in one!

2011-03-30T09:58:00.000-05:00

The Presque Isle headed out onto Lake Superior this morning from the Duluth Aerial Lift Bridge. It's eerie to watch these ships emerge from behind the ice dunes that still line the beach.

Presque isle is French for "almost an island." The boat is really "almost a boat." It's a combination of a barge and a "push tug," both with the same name. The tugboat part fits very neatly into the stern of the barge part, and both add up to a single unit over 1000 feet long. There are pictures of the two parts at Boatnerd.

Presque Isle is also the name of a town in Maine and one of the main rivers at Porcupine Mountains State Park on the Michigan shore of Lake Superior.

Just another interesting bit of Lake Superior shipping!

Skiing Silver Bay: The best first K on the shore

2011-03-29T13:40:00.002-05:00

It took me all winter and part of the spring to get back there, but yesterday I skied on my absolute favorite first kilometer of ski trail on the North Shore. Every ski trail has its charms in how it starts, but no trails have a first kilometer that is more intimate, welcoming and scenic than this one.

It's at the Northwoods Ski Touring Trail outside of Silver Bay. Skiers looking for this charming ski trail have no choice in the matter; from the parking lot on Penn Boulevard, every skier heads up the first kilometer of trail before they can choose another trail. The single-track, classic-only trail leads right along the bank of the quiet East Branch of the Beaver River. You climb gently through dark hallways of balsam fir, pop out on a short sunny stretch, then return to the woods. The trail pulls you into the woods; the river alongside the trail anchors you to the place.

The last time I was here, I was with Sally, another friend, and Duluth outdoor writer Sam Cook, and we were all excited about skiing through to Tettegouche. My ski yesterday felt like the end of the season. There is still plenty of snow in the hills around Silver Bay, but it's going fast. Each day the sun takes its toll, turning some open stretches to slush while leaving forested sections crusty and needle-ridden.

Trail designers cleverly put a trail register at the first real intersection, a full kilometer in, so you sort of have to prove yourself to be able to sign in. Since I first skied these trails back in 1996, trail managers have done a much better job keeping snowmobilers and walkers off the trail; maybe this new sign helped!

It was a great day in the woods...especially that first kilometer up the banks of the Beaver River!

Park Point ice ridges call out to climbers

2011-03-24T10:05:00.001-05:00

If you build it, they will come. When Lake Superior builds up 15-foot high ice ridges on Park Point, adventurous people will climb those ridges. Our neighborhood here has become a minor tourist destination for the adrenaline addicts and photographers.

As a father of boys, I was pretty nervous about the young men in the photo above. I just assumed they were young men. The wind was still howling off of the lake and these supposed dudes looked like they were at the edge of wild icy oblivion.

I made it up to that crest this morning, and was relieved to see that it dropped down to more ice and some smaller ridges below. You'll have to accept the above highly-cropped photo as proof of my own dudeliness.

It felt totally safe up on top, except for the slope of ice crystals, both slippery and rough. The possibility of road rash from sliding down the very rough slope was sobering.

Maybe it was to amp up the adrenaline factor, but somebody rode along the ridges on their mountain bike this morning. Dude.

Do it yourself, dude

Easiest way to reach these ridges is from the public access at Lake Avenue and 12th Street, aka "The S-Curve." It's about six blocks past Duluth's Aerial Lift Bridge, on the left.

Ice volcanoes on Park Point

2011-03-22T14:33:00.000-05:00

Combine big waves rolling in off Lake Superior with the big wind and a big ridge of ice at water's edge, and you get BIG splashes.

Focus those splashes through a ridge in the ice, and you get ice volcanoes. Murky, sediment-ridden water rises from the deep, shoots skyward and rolls over the brim like lava.

All those ingredients are lining up today, and the beach here on Park Point looks like the Rim of Fire. Little Mt. St. Helens are going off all up and down the shore from Canal Park to the end of Minnesota Point.

The wind is crazy strong. I tried to take pictures out on the ice ridges but my lens would fog up or ice over in seconds. Here's the best picture I could get, someone else down there, walking their dog:

Crazy lovely day on the Lake Superior shore!

Winter is still here, with more on the way

2011-03-21T10:25:00.000-05:00

There is plenty of snow up in the North Shore ridges. With a blizzard watch for tomorrow and a stretch of cold days coming after that, it looks like we've got a bonus week of real winter still ahead.

I love these snowdepth maps from the climatologists at the Minnesota DNR. Check out that raindrop-shaped smear of mauve along the North Shore. That's snow over two feet deep.

Even if the forecasts for a big snow don't pan out, here are some great ski trails right in that mauve smear:

Flathorn-Gegoka, Isabella
Northwoods Ski Touring Trail, Silver Bay
Sugarbush Trail, Tofte-Lutsen
Bally Creek Trails, Grand Marais

I've posted these with links to SkinnySki.com...you can watch for current trail conditions there.

Waterfall photography class with Paul Sundberg

2011-03-17T09:14:00.001-05:00

Combine the North Shore's most famous landmark with one of the North Shore's most well-liked guys, and you've got a perfect North Shore event. Bring your digital camera, or borrow one from the park, for "Photograph the Falls!" at Gooseberry Falls State Park, on Saturday, March 26 from 11:00 AM to 12:30 PM. Retired Gooseberry Park manager Paul Sundberg brings his wry humor, photographic eye, and a lifetime of stories to share his method of photographing the park's signature waterfalls.

Register in advance by calling (218) 834-3855.

Sugarbush: Groomed or ungroomed, still the best North Shore skiing

2011-03-13T18:25:00.001-05:00

Twenty years ago, my wife Sally and I rolled down Highway 1 from Ely to the North Shore with our cross country skis for a weekend with my parents. I had never skied on big wide groomed ski trails before, only on the winding skier-packed trails of the Superior National Forest. We skied on the Sugarbush Trails, just inland from Tofte.

It was mind-blowing. I felt like I'd died and gone to heaven. I still remember the thrill of gliding down the well-groomed hairpin turns of the Sixmile Crossing trail. The view of Leveaux Peak rising above the fields in the snow is still burned on my retina. It was the best cross country skiing I'd ever had.

The Sugarbush trails still are the North Shore's best. I get back there once or twice a year now, and every time it's the highlight of the ski season for me. The trails are typically very well groomed and very well maintained.

I returned to the Sugarbush trails this week with my friend Bunter. Our goal (well, really my New Year's resolution) was to ski the Picnic Loop, the 23-25 kilometer mega-loop through the heart of the Sugarbush system. We arrived at the Onion River Road parking lot in the midst of a perfect lake-effect snowfall, the woods and hills like they're in a snow globe freshly shaken.

As excellent as the trail grooming is, there is no way they could keep up with five inches of freshly falling snow. Especially on a Monday, when the folks who live and work on the North Shore are recovering from another hard weekend serving the guests. So Bunter and I took off for the Picnic Loop breaking trail, following the faint indents of the last person through the previous day.

So much for excellent grooming. The going was slow. According to my GPS, we were covering three kilometers an hour. That would get us around the Picnic Loop in about eight hours. At dark.

We stopped for lunch up in the forest of huge maple and yellow birch trees atop the ridge of the Homestead Loop, light snow still falling. The GPS unit was not encouraging at all. The woods, like Robert Frost would say, "were lovely, dark and deep." And we had miles to go before we'd sleep.

All sounds were muffled. Even the fish scales of our no-wax skis were quiet. The snow was deep enough and light enough that the tips of my skis stayed under the surface of the snow.

At the far end of the Homestead Loop, without even really discussing it, we made the turn away from the Picnic Loop and headed back to the car.

Finally, the Sugarbush groomer caught up with us. Since the snow was so light and fluffy, the groomer was "rolling" the trail first. Tired of breaking trail, we were glad to hear the groomer's snowmobile coming toward us. But after that initial rolling, the trail was far more difficult to ski. The grooves were like cream cheese, and there was no way to keep our skis sliding forward without them sliding off one groove and into another.

Fortunately, the groomer turned off at the next fork, and we had our non-groomed trail back for the last three or four kilometers to the trailhead.

It was a great day of skiing. We skied hard for five hours, as long a time we'd hoped it would take to ski the whole Picnic Loop. And the irony was, as much as I love the well-groomed trails here, it was the ungroomed trails that made our day.

See it (or ski it) for yourself!

To ski these trails, we used the Onion River Road trailhead. From Highway 61 at mile marker 87.4, take Forest Road 336 (Onion River Road) 2.1 miles inland to the large parking lot. We skied the entire Homestead Loop, for a total of about 14 kilometers of skiing.

Celebrate urban skiing with Tour Du Luth

2011-03-10T12:17:00.000-06:00

One of the coolest North Shore cross country ski events is taking place this weekend in Duluth. It's the seventh annual Tour Du Luth, a year-end celebration of this city's great skiing. It's not a race, but a chance to ski any or all of the city's 80-plus kilometers of ski trail.

Ski any of these trails, record your accomplishments on the sign-in sheet, then come to the year-end potluck at Hartley Nature Center. There are suggested start times for each trailhead, starting at 8:00 AM at Magney Snively and ending at 5:00 at Hartley Nature Center. It's all FREE.

Two years ago, Pete Lande skied all 85 kilometers. The year before that, a pack of crazy guys not only skied all the trails but rode their bikes between each trailhead.

Duluth city groomers are out today getting the trails in shape.

Have an ice day on Park Point

2011-03-08T15:32:00.000-06:00

There is a whole lot of ice along the Lake Superior shore here on Park Point. Every storm that blew in this winter brought another ridge or two of ice, and now those ridges stack up side-by-side about eight deep headed out to sea.

It's super fun and a bit scary to explore out on these ice mounds. Everything is built out of shards of ice that have been piled up and frozen back together. Sometimes it's just a field of shards, sometimes the shards build up to a ridge that drops precipitously down toward the lake side, where storm waves had tossed ice chunks up and over.

To reach the ice beach, cross Duluth's Aerial Lift Bridge from Canal Park and travel five blocks to the "S-curve." and Franklin Square. You can park in the lot on the left, on the lakeside and then just walk right out to the beach.

Some people use strap-on treads, like Yak-Trax. I just use common sense. Ice is slippery, but the real heart-stopping moments come when you break through a sheen of ice, sure you're going to plunge through to frigid Lake Superior, but land just a few inches lower on the next deeper layer of ice or snow.

Toward evening, look for little chunks of ice that catch the light. This one looks like the ghost of an agate, with the lines of beach ice turning into bands of color.

Enjoy! With easterly and northeasterly winds in the forecast for the next few days, the ice will probably stack up more and stay around for at least another month.

Spring thaw on the Gunflint Trail

2011-03-05T10:06:00.001-06:00

There is a lovely post on the Gunflint Trail blog about "subtle changes" in the woods and on the lakes this time of year. The chickadees are singing "fee-bee" and the lakes are crusty enough to walk on.

The meteorologists say that it's spring. All the snow in the woods and below-zero temps at night say it's winter. You can pick how you want to experience it, but it's definitely a time of gradual transition in the woods.

Each day starts cold and warms up. Each day feels like the transition from winter to spring is happening anew.This is a great time to strap on your no-wax skis or your mukluks and get out into the woods. When the sun comes out on a March day on the North Shore or the Gunflint Trail, you can ski or hike outside all day and never feel a chill. The sun sets around 6:00, so you can have a full afternoon on the trail. Then it's back to a warm cabin and the cycle starts over again the next day.

Erkki Harju says "Ski" in Two Harbors

2011-03-03T08:15:00.001-06:00

In twenty years of skiing on the North Shore's groomed trails, I've seen a lot of signs with basically the same message: Please don't walk on the groomed ski trail. I even remember the Nordic ski coach back in high school pleading with students in a school assembly to stay off the ski tracks around the athletic fields. But this sign, which I found yesterday at the Erkki Harju ski trail in Two Harbors, is by far the goofiest and maybe the most effective I've seen.

No, that is not Erkki Harju himself with the shovels and the drawl. According to my son, that's Groundskeeper Willie from The Simpsons, a vaguely Scottish lip-reader.

Of course, as a former poodle-walker myself, I found the message a little personal.

Here's the whole sign:

I really hope that last apostrophe is a typo and that they have more than one volunteer. These are lovely trails and there has to be a good group in town taking care of them. Although they wind through and around a golf course, the trails are mostly in the woods, so it was more like skiing through a forested glade than along a fairway.

To check it out for yourself, turn off Highway 61 onto County Road 2 at the eastern edge of Two Harbors, and drive just 0.7 miles north to the parking lot on the right. Just be sure ya ski and not walk on the trails. Especially if ya got a poodle.

No-wax skis: The cure for the Woodland Goodies faceplant

2011-03-01T09:19:00.000-06:00

It's spring! Time to break out your fish scales. No, not the device to weigh your catch of walleye. I mean the skis you have with the grippy surface underfoot.

It's March 1, the start of meteorological spring, and there is still a whole lot of snow on the North Shore. The ski season could go on for at least another month. But it's time to swap speed for sanity...and safety.

The main reason people use no-wax skis is convenience. You just put them on and go. You don't have to worry about what kick wax to use. You do sacrifice speed, as the grippy fish scales slow down your glide.

Another reason to use no-wax skis is that it's maddeningly difficult to wax properly when the temperature is above freezing. That involves using klister, a goopy syrup that reminds me of modeling glue.

Lately, however, I've come to appreciate my no-wax skis for a third factor: woodland goodies. In spring, with the warm winds and drying forest, the trails get littered with needles, leaves and bark from the trees. Since trail grooming slows down in March, this natural debris stacks up. Ski through a needle-ridden, leafy ski track with sticky kick wax and so much vegetative matter will cling to the bottom of your skis that you may as well have fish scales on your skis instead. Except a piece of bark will catch your skis from going forward at all and you may end up doing a faceplant.

With no-wax skis, you just glide over the needles and ski on.

I spent most of March in 1996 skiing North Shore trails with no-wax skis, as Sally and I researched our first North Shore ski book. I have fond memories of sunny days in open glades discovering new trails from Tofte to Grand Portage. Whatever speed I lost on those no-wax skis was more than compensated for by the fun and ease. And I don't think I had a single faceplant.

German Expressionism hits the North Woods

2011-02-26T16:38:00.001-06:00

Seen on a well-used National Forest outhouse at a ski trailhead in Ely:

This well-weathered man reminded me of the woodblock prints of the German Expressionist, like this one from Max Kaus.

When we arrived in Ely for our winter break, the woods were full of snow, but it was a crusty, angular, and shall we say depressing snow. Like the angular cuts in those woodblocks. Actually, there was a lot of German expressionism during our week up in the Ely woods.

Like my older son, in his first year of German, teaching his younger brother how to insult someone in that great language ("No, no, no, it's 'dein-e' Mutter, not 'dein' Mutter!")

Or when the old German scholar himself whoops it up sledding down the steps of the snowy cabin. Ach du lieber! Was für einen Rutsch!

When my 75% deutschstämmig wife expresses herself, is that German Expressionism?

What if she takes the express route right down a moody Boundary Waters lake? I think I've seen this scene in a Ernst Kirchner print.

Der viele, viele Schnee...

Chasing winter, you just might lose the race

2011-02-22T10:50:00.001-06:00

The other day, my family ended up at a restaurant having arrived in two different cars. When it was time to head home, one son rode with me, the other with Sally. My co-pilot son, as soon as we were out of earshot, told me to get going and beat them home. Unfortunately, they had a way faster path out of the parking ramp and would be unbeatable.

Wouldn't you know it, when we arrived at the one possible optional turn on the way back, they were right in front of us at the stoplight. They went one way and we went another. "High risk, high reward," I told my son as we headed out. "If the stoplights work for us, we might just pass them."

Well, the stoplights were against us, and we lost the "race." (Is it a race when the other participant doesn't know it's a race?)

We are up in Ely for the week. Normally, especially this time of winter, you head north for the snow and the cold. But Ely had a stretch of warm days last week that turned the ample snowpack into crust. And as we were leaving Duluth, a major storm was dumping snow on the Twin Cities and even on the outskirts of Duluth.

We chased winter all the way up here, then winter went the other way. We skied at the Hidden Valley ski trails yesterday and it was okay, not great, with a dusting of poofy snow packed into crusty trails.

Yet...it's not like we "lost" anything coming here.

It is still deep in the season here. The snow is two feet deep at least. I had the most amazing wolf-pack, wolf-howl experience ever, with a pack of wolves just a few hundred yards from our cabin howling away. The stars are bright and the birds at the feeder are wild creatures and Ely is, as always, Ely.

This winter still has a long way to go. Forecasts call for colder than normal temps through early March. I hope all those North Shore and winter fans in the Twin Cities are enjoying their next round of winter. I'm definitely enjoying mine.

Tough times for Two Harbors' Jacques

2011-02-20T20:55:00.001-06:00

Jacques the giant roadside voyageur stood for years next to the Voyageur Motel along the Two Harbors strip. Now he lies in pieces next to the Earthwood restaurant, just a few yards off the Highway 61 expressway west of town.

Back in town, his boots had been literally frozen to the ground. His head wobbled as the new owners tried to move him, and Jacques was literally decapitated in order to save him.

When I drove by the other day, the head was still nowhere to be seen. But the new restaurant owners have big plans to put Jacques back together, better than ever. He might even talk again. It's just a little gruesome right now.

After the thaw, ski season goes downhill

2011-02-17T09:21:00.004-06:00

For North Shore nordic skiers, this has been a tough week. A big thaw settled in over the region and melted away probably half of the snow in the woods. Cross country ski trails will be hard-packed and icy until we get more snow.

Fortunately, there are places on the North Shore where there is still plenty of snow, and where they have big machines to grind up the crust and create soft, ski-able conditions. The ski season has gone downhill...literally.

And let's face it, downhill skiing is a blast.

Lutsen Mountain should have very good ski conditions this week. The Big Wu is playing at Papa Charlies Saturday and Sunday. Lutsen says you can "let the Big Wu loosen the straps of your daily burden with real vibrations."

Spirit Mountain is also in fine shape, with four to five feet of snow on the slopes. If you can wait until March to get your fix, there's a great deal to be had: buy your first-time season pass for next year for cheap, and it's good all this spring too. One year, our family skied five or six times in March on this deal alone.

North Shore downhill skiing doesn't have to be super-expensive. Spirit Mountain has family deal Monday through Thursday evenings, where a family of four can ski for $25. Check out Mont du Lac in far western Duluth (actually in Wisconsin). A family skis all day there for $39. For the ultimate bargain, check out Chester Bowl in the middle of Duluth, where day passes cost around $6.

It's still snowy winter, despite the thaw. Make the most of it!

On the ski trail with Sigurd Olson

2011-02-16T09:25:00.000-06:00

Everywhere I go in northeastern Minnesota, the great naturalist, writer and activist Sigurd Olson was there before me. I skied along the top of an esker the other day with my son, lovingly pointing out to him how the trail ran down the top of the winding ridge. Eskers are basically fossils of the rivers that ran underneath the great continental glaciers

In search of a skiing quote later that day, I found this from Sigurd Olson (in Spirit Of The North: The Quotable Sigurd F. Olson)

An owl is hooting in the darkening timber, and over the trees hands a thin sliver of a moon. It is time to go, and we drift easily down the old river bed. On the last long slope we gather speed and know the thrill all skiers have at night of seeming airborne, of floating down into the darkness of a bowl. For a fleeting instant we are part of that glacial river churning through its tunnel of ice, part of the milky-white water speeding toward the boulder-strewn outwash below.

Here's me skiing down the steep end of the esker, into a gravel pit:

While Sigurd Olson probably never skied this trail (the Ridge Runner trail at Boulder Lake), he captured the spirit of the place and the skiing. He understood and explained the land of NE Minnesota like no one has since.

Sigurd Olson was a backcountry, break-your-own-trail skier. He wrote in his journal back in 1930 about his temporary ski trails, "How few men have a road all of their own that they alone travel and enjoy and how few can afford, once they have so expensive a treasure, to abandon it as I can. I am a millionaire of the spirit." (I love that last line!)

Get out today on your skis and find your own millions, thanks to the great Sigurd Olson.

Boot walking: Hike on the snow

2011-02-11T16:08:00.000-06:00

Here's a great way to get out and explore the winter woods. It might only be good for this weekend, so get ready and go!

The snow lies deep on the North Shore. But there hasn't been fresh snow for a week or so. With the cold we've had the last few days, now's the perfect time to head out on the snowshoe trails...without snowshoes. The trails have been packed by snowshoers, and the cold has hardened up that packed snow. Walking on top of the snow is just like walking on packed dirt. Stepping just off the trail sends you down deep in the unpacked snow.

Granted, I wear size 13 or 14 shoes, so I have a natural advantage.

I heard a North Shore state park manager call this "boot walking" last week, and the term has stuck with me. I was in Jay Cooke State Park yesterday with my snowshoes and a plan to hike the Grand Portage Trail there. The trail was packed hard and wide, and I just carried my snowshoes the whole way.

I wore mukluks and those were just a bit slippy. The best footwear would have been heavy hiking boots with a deep tread.

Any trail that normally has snowshoers on it should be fine for walking, at least until Sunday's thaw.

Skiing Duluth: From cow moose to cowbell

2011-02-10T08:25:00.001-06:00

One of the great things about skiing on the North Shore is all the variety of trails we have. In the course of 60 minutes this week, I was on two different ski trails, a few miles apart, but they were as different as could be.

I started on the Canosia Wildlife Management Area trail (above). This is just north of Duluth, 2.5 miles north of the Martin Road on Ugstad Road. For years a local volunteer would groom the 4.5 kilometers of trail that wind through different habitats. Apparently, that volunteer isn't grooming this year, so the trail is left to skiers and animals to track for themselves. The trail was quiet and peaceful. A few chickadees were singing their spring "fee bee bee" territorial song. I've seen more wildlife from this trail, including a large and peaceful moose, than any other ski trail in the Duluth area.

30 minutes later, I was at Snowflake Nordic Center, cheering for my son in a ski meet. The "trail" was groomed wide and smooth. The "wildlife" was just the wild colors of the teams' Lycra jerseys. This was not quiet and peaceful like Canosia; let's just say, thanks to cheering parents and coaches, there truly was "More Cowbell!" And a few vuvuzelas, though they're plastic and don't work as well in the cold.

There's something for everyone. More cow moose...and more cowbell!

Do it all by candelight at Gooseberry Falls

2011-02-08T08:11:00.006-06:00

For an adventurous and easy-to-reach North Shore experience, head for Gooseberry Falls State Park. It's just 45 minutes driving from Duluth, making it a comfortable day trip for many. Gooseberry is a lovely park, full of raging waterfalls, rocky shoreline and rugged trails.

To find the park, take the Visitor Center/Wayside Rest exit of Highway 61, twelve miles northeast of Two Harbors. You'll want to start your park experience at the Visitor Center parking lot.

In winter, you can SKI, SNOWSHOE and HIKE at Gooseberry.

SKI the 20 kilometers of groomed trails that climb the hills above the Gooseberry River and pass through open snowy woods. The trails in the park are groomed for classical skiing. Beginners will want to stay on the lakeside trail (Campground Loop), while advanced beginner and intermediate skiers will find a fabulous assortment of trails on the upper side of Highway 61. You'll reach these trails via an access trail from the Visitor Center that travels uphill and under the main highway bridge on the west side of the Gooseberry River (and you'll briefly share this access trail with other walkers, snowshoers, and possibly snowmobilers). To use any of the XC ski trails in this park, you'll need a Great Minnesota Ski Pass, available in the Visitor Center.

SNOWSHOE right up the banks of the river. If you've never used snowshoes before and want to learn, mark your calendar for Saturday, February 19, from 1:00 to 2:30pm, when Gooseberry Falls State Park will have a Learning to Snowshoe event. Pre-registration is required; use the park's snowshoes or bring your own. To find out more or to register, call 218-834-3855.

And you can HIKE down to the waterfalls, which are now beautiful tall columns of ice that gurgle. You'll reach the assortment of trails to waterfalls right from the Visitor Center.

Gooseberry's annual candlelight experience

On Saturday, February 19th, from 6:00 to 8:30pm, you can ski, snowshoe and hike...by candlelight! The annual Candlelight Ski, Snowhoe and Walk is the event on the North Shore for winter enthusiasts. Thanks to dozens of volunteers, ice luminaria illuminate the trails. The park visitor center fills with music and camaraderie.You won't want to miss this free opportunity to experience the magic of winter in this favorite North Shore state park.

Snowshoeing: Back to the Future

2011-02-06T16:45:00.001-06:00

The best way to truly experience the North Shore in all its wild winter glory is by snowshoe. Strap on a pair of snowshoes and head into the hills. It's slower than skiing, and it's truly a silent sport.

Before I discovered the glories of North Shore cross country ski trails, I spent my winter days exploring the area on snowshoes. I'd take a compass bearing to a distant ridgeline and tramp through the deep snow and brush to reach that landmark and feel like I was the first person there in a century. Now the Superior Hiking Trail runs to many of those ridgelines.

Once I went along with my neighbor, who had been laid off by Reserve Mining, and helped him check his trap lines, which were helping him feed his family through times.

The snow lies deep on the North Shore this winter, and on Friday more snow was falling. I drove into the campground at Cascade River State Park and headed up the trail to Lookout Mountain. The trail lead right by this old wooden bench that I remembered from my hike there a year ago. It's falling apart even more now than it was in 2009.

From atop Lookout Mountain, the view stretches north up the Cascade River valley. Except when it's obscured by falling snow.

I loved getting back on snowshoes. Snowshoeing is taking off in popularity in the last few years. The new park manager at Cascade, Kate Flitsch, told me that she's seeing more snowshoers now than skiers. Until this week, I'd forgotten the magic of traipsing at my own speed through the snowy woods. I could stop whenever I wanted to listen and look around. I saw more wildlife than I ever do skiing.

So watch for some more posts about snowshoeing on the shore. I'll write about snowshoe adventures at Judge Magney State Park and at Sugarloaf Cove. Maybe I'll see you out on the slow and silent trail!

Chloe poodle, RIP

2011-02-02T14:34:00.000-06:00

Our hike-lovin', ski-crazy, car-chasin' poodle moved on to doggie heaven yesterday. One moment she was running and dancing with us on the beach, the next moment she was gone over the dunes, and the moment after that she was gone, hit by a car on Lake Ave.

As weird as she was, Chloe was a huge part of our lives. It's sad to realize that our book Hiking the North Shore got to the printers on the same day she died: she is the star of the book, in at least a dozen photos as my only hiking companion.

She loved to run through the woods, sniffing up the world, pooping wherever she wanted, filling her coat with burs. She ran circles around me for miles on the Superior Hiking Trail and to the summit of Eagle Mountain. Here at home, she got us down to the beach every morning, whether it was 20 below or 10-foot swells after a November gale.

Chloe will be missed by her "grandpa boyfriends": Ranger (Ely), Ben and Brisby (Duluth) and Hammo (Little Marais).

Chloe was featured in 36 blog posts here. Check 'em out, if you can stand it. I couldn't stand it—we've been blubbering fools here for the last 24 hours. She drove me crazy, but she was totally family.

If there's a swamp hole in heaven, look for Chloe leg deep in it. If there's a UPS truck in heaven, watch out, Chloe is headed that way.

Good girl, Chloe.

The easiest ski trail in Duluth

2011-01-31T09:40:00.001-06:00

The good folks at Boulder Lake have done it again. They've added a new trail and a new parking lot to that wonderful network of trails just north of Duluth. And this time, they've created the Easiest Trail in Duluth.

Duluth doesn't have truly easy ski trails. The city is built on a steep rocky hillside that is riddled with creeks. What isn't steep here is deep. To build a soccer field, both dynamite and landfill are required. So a flat and easy ski trail is as rare as a palm tree here.

Boulder Lake is far enough away from Lake Superior that it's all on relatively flat terrain. And the new trails off the new East Parking Lot take full advantage of that flatness.

The new parking area is right off of County Road 4 (Rice Lake Road). Take Highway 4 18 miles north of Duluth and cross Island Lake on the causeway. Just past the Island Lake Inn, turn left on Boulder Dam Road. Then, after just a few hundred yards, turn right on Boulder Lake Road. The new parking area is ahead on the left.

The area's WIDEST ski trail runs from the parking lot to the north and west to connect with the existing trail system, right at the intersection of the Nine Pine loop and the Lonesome Grouse loop. They call it the Superhighway, and it's built wide enough for skate-skiers to go in both directions and pass without so much as touching a ski tip. There are even two classic ski tracks going in both directions.

The new campground loop runs through the Island Lake Campground, which was built by the folks who own the Island Lake Inn. The ski trail runs 1.5 completely flat kilometers through the campground. If you're looking for a ski adventure, this is not the place. But if you're looking to take a skittish adult on their first ski outing or a toddler for their second outing, this is the place. It's amazing how steep even the slightest downhill can look to a beginning skier; there is no such hill on this loop.

There is only one problem with this new campground loop. There is a short but steep climb up from the Superhighway to the loop. I imagine all the real beginners flailing on the hill, spread out on the snow like tacklers who missed their tackles on a kickoff return. With your beginner, just take off your skis and walk up this short challenge.

The one true easy ski trail in the Duluth area is the Red Trail in the Superior Municipal Forest. But that's in Wisconsin, and you'd have to wear your Green Bay Packers Lycra to ski there.

North Shore dog ski...the Ultimate Outdoor Experience?

2011-01-25T07:43:00.002-06:00

So you love the North Shore. And you love to ski. To top it all off, you love your dog. What if you could combine all of those into ...The...Ultimate...Outdoor...Experience?

Don't try strapping four tiny little skis onto your dog's paws, try skijoring instead. Or at least try taking the hound out with you when you ski.The dog will love it. You might like it too.

Suffice to say that with our psychotic, self-centered poodle, it's not about pulling forward to go fast. It's not a mini-version of a Beargrease sled dog team all focused and working together. With Chloe, it's all about her and whatever whim strikes her.

In the Duluth area, there are four ski trails that allow dogs on the groomed ski trails:

Lester Park golf course
Separate from the well-known Lester Park ski trails, this is a 3 kilometer loop along the fairways of the golf course. Chloe is in her glory in the picture above.

Boulder Lake
Sundays and Thursdays are dog days at Boulder. Chloe, floppy ears and all, actually looks pretty focused in the picture at top.

Snowflake Nordic
Most used by local ski teams and Olympians, this private trail system allows members to bring their dogs anytime.

Biskey Ponds
A new ski trail system at Fish Lake north of Duluth, they allow dogs on Sunday afternoons and Mondays...on the trail called "Wolf Run Loop."

The options dwindle a bit as you head up the North Shore. But the scenery and wildness improve.

Summit View Trail, Sugarbush
Head up toward the summit of Carlton Peak on this designated dog trail. It starts from the Britton Peak trailhead off the Sawbill Trail.

George Washington Pines

Just north of Grand Marais on the Gunflint Trail, you and your dog will enjoy this 3.5 K loop through the woods, just like Bryan Hansel and friends did. Check out the video!

Ski joke: Why ski trails are measured in kilometers

2011-01-21T08:59:00.004-06:00

The world needs more ski jokes; here's my attempt to provide something new:

The top ten reasons ski trails are measured in meters and kilometers, not feet and miles

1. When the woods are lovely, dark and deep, skiers would rather not have miles to go before they sleep
2. Skiers’ feet are stinky
3. C’mon, would you rather ski 30 miles or 30K?
4. Three words: One World Government
5. “5 K” sounds way cooler than “3.2 M”
6. That’s how they measure distance in Finland and Norway...and all the rest of the industrialized world
7. Chicks dig “clicks”
8. Gives the Italian, Swedish and Norwegian skiers homefield advantage wherever they compete
9. “Short” and “long” were already taken
10. Since ski wax temperatures are in Celsius, it’s easier to make the conversion

Back to the Seventies on the Piedmont ski trail

2011-01-19T16:48:00.001-06:00

Duluth's popular Piedmont ski trail is more than classic cross country skiing at its best...it's a pun-ridden pop culture history lesson, firmly rooted in the 1970s. My teenage sons have no idea what they're missing, and I sound pretty lame as I try to explain.

So at a soft turn in the trail, there's the hand-lettered sign "Gentle Bend." Who remembers the tame black bear sitting in the bow of the airboat skimming through the Everglades? Sure "Gentle Ben" was broadcast in the late 1960s, but must have run as afternoon reruns in the 1970s. I can't pass that sign without the theme song popping in my head...or was that the Mayberry RFD theme?

At least two more early 70s TV shows pop up in puns on Piedmont. What do you feel like the first few times you go skiing each year? A little sore like Eva Gabor would after she climbed the telephone pole to make a call?

When the trail runs through an open marshy area and tall grasses creep up to the trail, go back to another 1970s TV show, "Kung Fu." How often have you done your best imitation of Master Po telling David Carradine, "When you can take this pebble from my hand, Grasshopper..."?

Two more signs are tributes to 1969, on the cusp of the 1970s. One is at the top of a wonderful long straight downhill that lets you glide through the forest like on the seat of a stars-and-striped motorcycle. Another is right at the bottom of another long hill, perfectly placed where most skiers come to rest after a long descent.

But my new favorite sign, perched right at the crest of a big dip in the trail, the one that got all these 1970s remembrances going this afternoon, took me right back to the era of Farrah hair, Lip Smackers and ski sweaters:

Just how many folks out there really remember Dippity Do?

The 1970s were the years that nordic skiing really got going in Minnesota. Do you suppose all those Finns who built the trails were actually inspired by bad TV to get outside and do something righteous?

Whales exhale? On Lake Superior?

2011-01-18T14:33:00.000-06:00

Out on the beach this morning, I found all sorts of new ice formations. Lake Superior had, once again, frozen over and then, once again, all the ice blew to shore.

There was a strange, and strangely familiar, sound coming from the edge where the open water met the ice mounds. It was a low, slow "pffft," like a massive creature exhaling.

In fact, it took me right back to the rugged coast of San Juan Island this summer, where we watched five pods of orcas swim by within yards off shore, their breaths sounding as clear as if they were breathing on our cheeks. That was one of the most amazing experiences I've had in years.

Now it was just a few days ago that I wrote about Lake Superior "whale burps", but I'm pretty sure there aren't whales in this Great Lake. I can hope all I want, but large marine mammals haven't done well here.

But the "pffft" was coming from something unusual...ice volcanoes. Swells roll in off the open water. The swells push under the ice shelf. Enough pressure is still in the swell that water...and air...pushes up through a narrow crack.

Here's a video someone shot of ice volcanoes:

You just never know what you might see...or hear...on the shores of Lake Superior.