North Shore fall colors: Past their peak

Twice in the last two days I've driven from Duluth up to the middle of the North Shore. On Thursday, we were actually looking for fall colors and a glorious hike. Today it was just for a meeting, but I kept my eyes out.

Here's my blow-by-blow, tree-by-tree analysis:

Maples: 

Pool in a woodland stream, Section 13 hike

The famed sugar maple forests of the North Shore ridgelines are nearly done. Entire hillsides of maple trees are barren. Yellow maple leaves carpet the forest floors. Some smaller maples, tucked into the protection of a forest, still have some yellow leaves. Driving through Finland, there was hardly a colored maple leaf left on the trees.

Ironically, there is one glorious orange maple right by the highway where it passes through Gooseberry Falls State Park. Don't let this tree, obviously planted by a landscaper, fool you. The maple season in the heart of the North Shore is nearly over.

Oaks: 

Red oak leaves, Section 13 trail

 Most of the red colors in the inland areas, like on our hike yesterday to Section 13, were on the red oak trees. The red of red oak leaves can be luscious, like lipstick. The oaks tend to stand by themselves in rockier, shallower soil, not in thick groves like the maple. So each colorful oak tree really popped.

Aspen:

Aspens glow yellow, oaks red below Section 13 cliffs

Along Highway 61, clusters of aspen ranged from fully green-leaved to completely empty of leaves. Their color gets better the further we went up the shore. Many solo aspens along the highway and on the hillsides were glorious fountains of golden yellow.

Birch:
What birch? Especially along Highway 61, the birch are virtually all died out. Their white bark still stands, providing nice contrast to the other, still living trees.

If you're looking for fall colors this week, I'd recommend sticking to the Highway 61 corridor. Go for a walk on the ski trails at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. Hit the Superior Hiking Trail to Elys Peak in the western part of Duluth. There's still lots of lovely autumn out there still, you just might have to look for it.

Get back into the wild at Tettegouche's High Falls

The State Parks are back! Take this weekend to reacquaint yourself with the deep pockets of scenery and nature in the North Shore parks. 

To the High Falls

High Falls of the Baptism, May 2011, from Flickr

Recent rains have lifted North Shore streams out of their summer slumber. With the shutdown over and the park gates open again, head deep into Tettegouche State Park for the short walk to the High Falls of the Baptism River.   

At approximately 70 feet tall, this the highest waterfall completely in Minnesota...the High Falls of the Pigeon River at Grand Portage are taller, but are shared with Ontario.

Reaching the falls
Enter Tettegouche State Park off Highway 61 at mile marker 85.6. Pick up your vehicle permit at the park office, then continue 1.5 miles on the park road to the trail center parking lot past the campground.

Signs lead all the way to the High Falls. You'll follow the big main trail up and out of the parking lot for about 500 yards, then turn right on the Superior Hiking Trail. It's another 500 yards or so on the Superior Hiking Trail to the falls, which should be raging pretty good after the rains. Spur trails lead off to viewing platforms and to the fun suspension bridge over the river. 

If this doesn't satisfy your want of waterfalls, you can continue downstream on trails either side of the river to scenic Two-Step Falls. 


Picnic and swim at the mouth
After your hike, return down the park road, cross the old bridge over the Baptism and park on the right side. It's a short stroll down to the gravel beach at the mouth of the Baptism River, where you'll find excellent swimming (on the river side if the lake is too rough or too cold). This is a perfect spot to enjoy your rustic picnic lunch in a classic North Shore setting.

Hiking and herring: Celebrate Lake Superior Day

Happy Lake Superior Day! Time to head up the shore for a scenic hike, a dip in the lake, and some good fresh Lake Superior fish. 

For about 20 years now, fans of Lake Superior have taken the third Sunday of July as Lake Superior Day to celebrate the world's largest freshwater lake. Fun educational events are scheduled up and down the North Shore. Events are great, but be sure to have your own Superior celebration.

Make your own celebration with a Superior hike

 

Carlton Peak is a challenging, fun hike you can take all the way from the shore of Lake Superior to one of the highest points and biggest views on the North Shore. Drive to the Highway 61 parking lots of Temperance River State Park, between Schroeder and Tofte at mile marker 80.3. You'll follow the Superior Hiking Trail up the amazing gorge of the Temperance River and then a long steady climb up to the stony knob of the peak. It's 3.5 miles in to the peak with 900 vertical feet to gain. The big views up and down the shore from the summit are the perfect reward for the long hike up. 

You'll be hot when you get back to Highway 61, so finish your Lake Superior Day hike by dipping your toes...or even your whole body...in the lake itself. Although the park is closed to vehicles, you can still follow the trails down the west side of the river to the beach area. 

Hungry for herring

 

Feeling refreshed...and hungry, head for Satellite's Country Inn about eight miles west of Temperance. This is a true mom-and-pop restaurant, with home-made pies on the plate and local history artifacts on the walls. But what makes this THE spot in western Cook County for Lake Superior Day are the fishcakes, made with local, fresh-caught lake herring.

Happy, happy Lake Superior Day!

Heritage Days: A great North Shore festival this weekend

Some North Shore towns seem to have a festival every weekend from May to October. Not to name names, but I'm thinking of a certain town that rhymes with "Brand Hooray".

No such festival overload in Two Harbors. The city on Agate Bay saves all their festing for one big weekend in July. This weekend, head for the Two Harbors Heritage Days Festival.

The festival runs from today through Sunday, July 10. The Minnesota Old West Society has already set up their camp by the depot. Friday is music and dancing all day, including a vocal performance with Lake County natives Andrew Gangestad and Nathan Herfindahl. Oh, and there's a Lutefisk Toss at 4:00.

The big day is Saturday, with the parade at 1:00, music all day at the Heritage Days Stage, and a special concert with the Duluth Superior Symphony Orchestra at the historic bandshell.

Take some time away from the festivities to walk around Lighthouse Point. Look for blooming butterwort in the open Lake Superior ledgerock. Head out the slender breakwater to the lighthouse. Make the most of this one great weekend in Two Harbors!

The best North Shore Fourth of July

Fourth of July in small-town America means parades and fireworks. If you're on the North Shore for the Fourth, head for Tofte for the best small-town celebration of all.

Sure, Two Harbors has fireworks and an ice cream social And Grand Marais will have fireworks and a parade. Even little Silver Bay and Grand Portage will have fireworks. But no one puts it all together like Tofte. 

Here's your schedule for a great North Shore Fourth of July at Tofte:

7:45 AM Tofte Trek registration 
Opens at Birch Grove for Tofte Trek 10K Wilderness Run (and hike)

9:30 AM Tofte Trek start
Run through the woods, get muddy, then jump in Lake Superior at the end. 


11:00-5:00 Festival of fish, fun
At the Tofte Town Hall: challenge the climbing wall, enjoy live local music, eat some fish burgers, and take on your family in a water balloon battle.

1:00 PM Petite parade 
This is a classic small-town parade. The route is short enough, sometimes they do it twice. Old cars, the classic fire truck, and lots of red, white and blue. Who knows what the Superior National Forest service will do this year? 



Dusk: Fireworks and fear
Head for Tofte Town Park for the best viewing. There's a lot of excitement every year, especially after the big explosion in 2009 when everything went off at once.  

Lady's slippers and Larry Weber at Jay Cooke

Heavy rains this week have returned the North Shore rivers to flood stage. Rains also damaged the road construction underway near Split Rock Lighthouse, slowing the traffic there. This is the weekend to stay closer to Duluth and explore the seasonal wonders of Jay Cooke State Park.

Showy Lady's Slipper, from www.maine.gov

Lady's slippers near and far
Wildflower fans come to Jay Cooke in early summer for the displays of lady's slippers. This week, there are yellow and showy lady's slippers blooming in the park, including some that are found right near the park office. Hike #1 from my book Hiking the North Shore, the 3.6 mile Silver Creek Trail, goes right past a huge stand of yellow lady's slipper. Stop at the brand-new park office for directions to the park's fabulous orchids.

The Swinging Bridge over a raging St. Louis River, 2008

The St. Louis River is running high after heavy rains, and should be thundering underneath the park's iconic Swinging Bridge by this weekend. But the river won't be the only noise there: park naturalist Kristine Hiller says that gray tree frogs are hanging out on the bridge stone pilings and calling.

Learn to fish, camp and birdwatch
Three interesting...and free...programs are on tap for this weekend in the park: on Friday, join the "I Can Fish" program from 1:00 to 3:00. On Sunday, there's "Camping 101" , also from 1:00 to 3:0.

Larry Weber

Early-risers, birdwatchers and nature lovers are in for a special treat. At 7:00 am Sunday morning, meet renown local naturalist Larry Weber at the campground bathhouse for a bird song walk. No binoculars needed, just listening. 

How to get there
The park is located in Carlton, MN. If you're coming from the Twin Cities, take exit 235 off Interstate 35 and head through the towns of Carlton and Thompson on Hwy 210 to the park. From Duluth, take exit 239 and follow the signs to Carlton and the park.

A super solstice weekend in Grand Marais

Grand Marais is the place to be this weekend. Northern evenings are long and the nights are short. Duluth and Two Harbors will be packed with marathon runners, so head farther up the shore for a classic North Shore experience with elbow room 

This weekend is the 14th Annual Wooden Boat Show at North House Folk School. The show celebrates the romance and history of wooden boats. From noon on Friday to 3:00 pm on Sunday, a fleet of wooden kayaks, canoes, scows, and more will be on display at the Folk School campus. There's a Community of Crafters, a contra dance, and a Lake Superior Chowder Experience. Some of the coolest courses have already started, like "Handcrafting a Northwoods Paddle," but you can still learn the games of kubb, lacrosse, and deadfish polo. For more information, visit the North House website.

Fire Dragon, from http://www.oldwadenasociety.blogspot.com/

Also at North House this weekend is the Summer Solstice Pageant, with the Good Harbor Hill Players. Every solstice, both summer and winter, creative Grand Marais folks put on a great show mixing North Shore culture with current events and local inside jokes.

For the full weekend experience, grab a campsite at the Grand Marais municipal campground right next door to the North House campus. This campground is featured in my book Camping the North Shore as one of the area's best. As of this morning, they still have tent and RV sites open for the weekend. Call them at (800) 998-0959 or (218) 387-1712 to reserve your spot.

Big, free day at Split Rock Lighthouse

Saturday, June 11, is the annual open house at all Minnesota State Parks. That means all one-day vehicle permits are free. Perfect! Now you can join me for a great guided hike Saturday at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.

Most North Shore state parks have trails and landmarks that are open only to those with vehicle permits. This weekend, use this opportunity to explore these trails and landmarks for free.

At Gooseberry Falls State Park, the open house lets you visit the whole lakeshore area with its dramatic stone buildings and open, rocky Picnic Flow. At Tettegouche State Park, the free vehicle permit will let you easily access the High Falls of the Baptism River. At Cascade River State Park, Saturday's free permit gets you access to the lakeshore picnic area and a mile of ledgerock walking. 

See Split Rock's Lighthouse and take a guided hike

This Saturday's open house gets you free admission not only to the state parks but also to Split Rock Lighthouse itself. So make day of it in Split Rock!

Andrew Slade atop Day Hill, with lighthouse in background

I'll be guiding a pleasant hike during the open house. Meet me at the Split Rock Lighthouse State Park Trail Center at 10:00am Saturday. We're going on a 2.6-mile hike on the Little Two Harbors and Day Hill trails. We'll stop at secluded beaches and scamper to the top of Day Hill, where a mysterious stone fireplace frames dramatic lake views. The hike will take about two hours.

After the hike, come to the Lighthouse for a free tour. I'll be signing copies of my new book, Hiking the North Shore, at the museum store there from 1:00 to 3:00pm.  

Eats and treats after the trail
The North Shore's newest dining option just opened up...right at Split Rock Lighthouse! The folks from Splashing Rock Restaurant at Grand Superior Lodge have opened the Third Rock Deli, serving sandwiches, wraps and salads. 

Travel note: construction on Highway 61 is in full throttle now near Split Rock. Expect delays, either if you're driving through or just stopping at the park.

Hike Gooseberry, Eat Rustic

 Spring has sprung on the North Shore! The woods are filling with wildflowers, the hiking trails are dry after the spring mud season, and the crush of summer tourists has not yet begun. It's a great time to hit the North Shore state parks. Here's what to do this weekend on the Shore:

On Saturday, come to Gooseberry Falls State Park. (From the town of Two Harbors, follow State Highway 61 northeast approximately 13 miles to the park.) Starting from the Visitor Center, take the 2.0 mile Gitchi Gummi Trail through greening birch forests to the scenic overlook above the mouth of the Gooseberry River. Enjoy the new decks hanging over the lake with big views up and down the shore (pictured above). Pull out your snack and savor the sights.

After your short trek, hike back to the Visitor Center for my 12:00 noon program in the theater. I'll be talking about "Hiking the North Shore," with recommendations for more great day hikes along the shore. I'll be signing books in the park store from 1:00 to 3:00 in the afternoon.

When you're done at the park, stop at the Rustic Inn in Castle Danger for pie or a late lunch. I've had their North Shore Crumble a few times lately, but their chocolate (pictured) and custard pies are delicious, too.