North Shore wipe out; bring your own TP

Open outhouse with all the toilet paper gone, Temperance 7/14

It looks like  Minnesota's finest state parks, the eight gems along the North Shore, will start to reopen this weekend. If you're headed up the shore and stopping at a park, you still might want to bring your own toilet paper.

While the parks were closed to vehicle traffic, plenty of park lovers walked into the parks from Highway 61. And while the fancy buildings with the flush toilets were locked up, most of the outhouses were left open. When these outhouse users were cleaning up, they cleaned out the toilet paper. 

I cringe to imagine what desperate measures might have been taken after the TP was gone at easy-to-reach outhouses like those at Temperance River State Park. Large-leafed aster, anyone?

A slow short walk to Palisade Head

Palisade Head. The very name sounds dramatic and romantic, like nearby Castle Danger. The sheer red rhyolite cliffs tower over Lake Superior and provide an amazing view across the lake. 1000-foot ore boats sail past looking as small as dollhouse figurines. Peregrine falcons and rock climbers dance about the crevices of the cliff, and on a busy summer day, dozens of cars crowd the cliff-edge viewing area. 

There are no crowds there today. With the Minnesota government shutdown still underway, now is the perfect time to take the slow short walk to the top of Palisade Head and have the North Shore's most dramatic shoreline all to yourself. 

Palisade Head is part of Tettegouche State Park, so the gates off of Highway 61 are closed. Fortunately, there is a large parking area right off the highway, put there for cars pulling trailers to leave their trailer behind. The road to the top is narrow, winding and often steep, and trailers are not allowed. Now cars are not allowed either, and it's perfect for walking.

It's a ten-minute walk from the roadside parking lot past the gate to the top of Palisade Head. Along the way, you can pick out northern forest wildflowers like meadow rue and pyrola.

As the road reaches the crest of the hill, the view opens up out onto Lake Superior. At the same time, you'll see your first blueberries. The berries are still green. While this year's crop doesn't look real promising, some years you can fill gallon buckets of berries up here. 

The view really is spectacular. Look east and you'll pick out Shovel Point; imagine the enormous flow of ashy rhyolite that once filled all the space between Palisade Head and Shovel Point before time, wind and water carried it away. Look past Shovel Point and you can pick out the triangular crests of the Sawtooth Mountains. 


I have my own sentimental reasons for liking Palisade Head, memories of a full moon glittering on the vast watery palette, a cold and starlit May sky and the company of a beautiful woman. 

Even after the shutdown ends, make your own slow short walk to Palisade Head. 

See it for yourself
Palisade Head is at mile marker 56, just two miles east of Silver Bay.

Hiking and herring: Celebrate Lake Superior Day

Happy Lake Superior Day! Time to head up the shore for a scenic hike, a dip in the lake, and some good fresh Lake Superior fish. 

For about 20 years now, fans of Lake Superior have taken the third Sunday of July as Lake Superior Day to celebrate the world's largest freshwater lake. Fun educational events are scheduled up and down the North Shore. Events are great, but be sure to have your own Superior celebration.

Make your own celebration with a Superior hike

 

Carlton Peak is a challenging, fun hike you can take all the way from the shore of Lake Superior to one of the highest points and biggest views on the North Shore. Drive to the Highway 61 parking lots of Temperance River State Park, between Schroeder and Tofte at mile marker 80.3. You'll follow the Superior Hiking Trail up the amazing gorge of the Temperance River and then a long steady climb up to the stony knob of the peak. It's 3.5 miles in to the peak with 900 vertical feet to gain. The big views up and down the shore from the summit are the perfect reward for the long hike up. 

You'll be hot when you get back to Highway 61, so finish your Lake Superior Day hike by dipping your toes...or even your whole body...in the lake itself. Although the park is closed to vehicles, you can still follow the trails down the west side of the river to the beach area. 

Hungry for herring

 

Feeling refreshed...and hungry, head for Satellite's Country Inn about eight miles west of Temperance. This is a true mom-and-pop restaurant, with home-made pies on the plate and local history artifacts on the walls. But what makes this THE spot in western Cook County for Lake Superior Day are the fishcakes, made with local, fresh-caught lake herring.

Happy, happy Lake Superior Day!

The shutdown continues: Go to Twin Points

Your own personal deck at the Twin Points boat launch.

While Minnesota's governor and legislature play Chicken with each other over the state budget, the state parks remain closed. If you're on the North Shore and looking for an outdoor experience, head for one of the public boat landings. My personal favorite on the shore is Twin Points. 

Twin Points is just three miles past Gooseberry Falls State Park. It was the site of a family resort and has since been transferred to state ownership. Unlike the state parks, Twin Point remains open this month. 

Three great features make this a must-do North Shore experience.

Great Feature 1: Iona's Beach

Red shingles dominate Iona's Beach

Take a short, scenic walk through a pine forest to this unique red shingle beach. It's been set aside as a state scientific and natural area, to protect the beach and the wetland behind it. The beach is composed entirely of rhyolite shingles, which have been stacked up by northeast storms. Iona Lind was the matriarch of the family that owned and operated Twin Points resort. After exploring the beach, head along the shoreline clockwise around the "twin" points back to your car, and watch for a deep, awesome crack in the rock.

Great Feature 2: Scenic boat launch

Even if you don't have a boat on a trailer, you can still enjoy the deck at the launch with its dramatic view back down the shoreline. Bring your own folding chair and pretend that you're North Shore royalty. 

Great Feature 3: Gitchi Gami Trail

The Gitchi Gami bike trail heads through Twin Points pines

Bring your bike and explore the shore! Twin Points is in the middle of the longest contiguous section of the Gitchi Gami bike trail. From Twin Points, you can ride west into Gooseberry Falls State Park and check out the waterfalls, or ride east into Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. As far as I know, those parks are still open for access by bike or by foot. 

How to get there

The entrance to Twin Points is at mile marker 42, three miles east of the entrance to Gooseberry Falls State Park. Look for a small brown sign that indicates public water access, then notice two large parking lots on the lake side of the highway. That's your turn. You'll see the large sign for Iona's Beach at the left-hand parking lot. 

Note on necessities

While the entrance to Twin Points should be open, the outhouses may not be. Buy some gas and goodies in Beaver Bay or Two Harbors before you get to Twin Points and use the facilities at the store.

Heritage Days: A great North Shore festival this weekend

Some North Shore towns seem to have a festival every weekend from May to October. Not to name names, but I'm thinking of a certain town that rhymes with "Brand Hooray".

No such festival overload in Two Harbors. The city on Agate Bay saves all their festing for one big weekend in July. This weekend, head for the Two Harbors Heritage Days Festival.

The festival runs from today through Sunday, July 10. The Minnesota Old West Society has already set up their camp by the depot. Friday is music and dancing all day, including a vocal performance with Lake County natives Andrew Gangestad and Nathan Herfindahl. Oh, and there's a Lutefisk Toss at 4:00.

The big day is Saturday, with the parade at 1:00, music all day at the Heritage Days Stage, and a special concert with the Duluth Superior Symphony Orchestra at the historic bandshell.

Take some time away from the festivities to walk around Lighthouse Point. Look for blooming butterwort in the open Lake Superior ledgerock. Head out the slender breakwater to the lighthouse. Make the most of this one great weekend in Two Harbors!

Book review: A View of the Lake

For every 100 people who dream of leaving the big city (or the big suburbs) behind and moving to the North Shore, one or two people actually do it. That ratio has brought enough people to populate the North Shore with quite a cast of characters who have chosen to make this rough land their home.

In A View of the Lake, Beryl Singleton Bissell chronicles the leap of faith she and her husband Bill took in 1999 when they landed in quiet Schroeder, Minnesota, surprised owners of a run-down home they bought only for the view of Lake Superior.

Beryl and Bill immersed themselves in the community right away. I first met them when they were about four years into their new North Shore lives and Beryl was already busy and respected. In this book, Beryl shares how their community connections gradually unfolded.

Contemplating this transition into the North Shore community, Beryl writes, "What was it, I wondered, that brought a sense of belonging to place? ... Was it something we can make happen, or was it more tenuous, a gift?"

Belonging to the North Shore comes to them through neighborly interactions at the Schroeder Post Office, repeated hikes on their closest stretch of the Superior Hiking Trail, quiet writing retreats and epic adventures. I have a bit part in the book myself, as the guy who led them out onto the ice of Lake Superior.

If you've ever considered making a move like this, to the North Shore or Montana or Manhattan, this book is an important read. It reminded me of Rick Bass' Winter: Notes from Montana. In fact, Bissell's book would be strengthened with more of the chronological, narrative style of Bass' Winter. Bissell's short chapters are easy to read, but they keep the reader distant from the truly interesting underlying storylines.

The couple's move to the North Shore became complete when they purchased a family grave plot at the Schroeder cemetery (for the resident price of four dollars). It was final evidence of their determination "to make this our home 'till death do us part." The North Shore and its fans are better off now with these new "locals."

Sugarloaf: Despite the shutdown, your own North Shore state park

Margie Menzies, amazing summer naturalist at Sugarloaf Cove

Minnesota State Parks are closed this week. And probably next week, too. If you're on the North Shore and you need your state park fix, head for Sugarloaf Cove. You'll find a hiking trail, quiet Lake Superior beaches, interpretive programs, and one super summer naturalist at the heart of it all. 

Sugarloaf Cove is a state scientific and natural area; it's managed by a private nonprofit organization, so it's still open despite the state government shutdown.

Here are four reasons why you need to go to Sugarloaf Cove now:

1. It's open! You don't have to park along Highway 61 and climb over the barricades to reach Sugarloaf, just enter the parking lot at mile marker 73.3 west of Schroeder. 
2. It has a great one-mile interpretive trail. Learn about historic log rafting, ancient geology. and current ecological restoration, then hang out on a quiet cobblestone beach.
3. Margie Menzies. Margie is the summer naturalist on site, and brings decades of natural history and education experience. She can answer nearly any question you might have about the North Shore, from boulders and basalt to black-throated blue warblers. Check out the Sugarloaf website for her regularly scheduled interpretive programs.
4. New path! Follow the new trail straight from the parking lot to the "nature center." It leads right into the woods and across a fancy new bridge.

New bridge at Sugarloaf

We'll get Gooseberry, Tettegouche and Cascade back soon enough. For now, check out the wonders of Sugarloaf Cove.
 

Minnesota state parks are closed: alternate North Shore campgrounds

Yes, the terrific North Shore state parks are closed due to the Minnesota government shutdown. Even if you made reservations for that prime campsite a year ago for this holiday weekend, you can't use it. Plan A has gone down the drain.

Where else do you camp? You need a Plan B. For campsites right on Lake Superior, the only options left are private campgrounds and municipal campgrounds. They have already absorbed the overflow from the state parks and are full.

I recommend hitching up your sense of adventure and heading inland for a campsite in the Superior National Forest. To camp the North Shore this is the weekend you need a copy of my book, Camping the North Shore: A Guide to the 23 best campgrounds in Minnesota's spectacular Lake Superior region. You'll find detailed directions and descriptions for lovely campgrounds such as Crescent Lake, Two Island Lake, and Temperance River. If you're willing to go off the beaten path, you'll find free rustic campgrounds along trout streams, on the edge of the BWCA.

As you head through Duluth to the North Shore, pick up a copy of this book at Duluth Pack Store, the Bookstore at Fitgers, or any Holiday Store. 

Plan B: Head up the Cramer Road
The lucky folks already camped at lovely Ninemile Lake won't like me for telling you this, but I'd recommend heading to that campground first. From Finland, head east and north on the Cramer Road (County Road 7). The Ninemile Lake campground is about ten miles out of Finland. If all 24 sites are full there, keep heading inland on County Road 7 to check out the rustic campgrounds at Harriet Lake and Hogback Lake. You might end up all the way inland at Kawishiwi Lake, but it will be lovely, quiet, and free.

The best North Shore Fourth of July

Fourth of July in small-town America means parades and fireworks. If you're on the North Shore for the Fourth, head for Tofte for the best small-town celebration of all.

Sure, Two Harbors has fireworks and an ice cream social And Grand Marais will have fireworks and a parade. Even little Silver Bay and Grand Portage will have fireworks. But no one puts it all together like Tofte. 

Here's your schedule for a great North Shore Fourth of July at Tofte:

7:45 AM Tofte Trek registration 
Opens at Birch Grove for Tofte Trek 10K Wilderness Run (and hike)

9:30 AM Tofte Trek start
Run through the woods, get muddy, then jump in Lake Superior at the end. 


11:00-5:00 Festival of fish, fun
At the Tofte Town Hall: challenge the climbing wall, enjoy live local music, eat some fish burgers, and take on your family in a water balloon battle.

1:00 PM Petite parade 
This is a classic small-town parade. The route is short enough, sometimes they do it twice. Old cars, the classic fire truck, and lots of red, white and blue. Who knows what the Superior National Forest service will do this year? 



Dusk: Fireworks and fear
Head for Tofte Town Park for the best viewing. There's a lot of excitement every year, especially after the big explosion in 2009 when everything went off at once.  

A little bit about lupines

It's lupine season on the North Shore. The fields of blue flowers along Highway 61 rival the golds and yellows of fall for the best colors along the scenic drive. 

Many people I ask tell me that the lupines are their favorite North Shore flowers...even though the flowers aren't native. I guess that makes the lupine like a lot of us: outsiders who have tried to fit in and make the North Shore a little better for everyone.

As you enjoy these towers of flowers, here's a few fun facts to add to your enjoyment:

• "Lupine", as any decent fan of Harry Potter knows, is related to the Latin word for wolf (get it, Professor Lupin...the kind-hearted werewolf?). It was once thought that lupines "wolfed" the nutrients out of the soil, hence the name.
• The North Shore lupine are known scientifically as Lupinus polyphyllus. They are  native to the western US coastal mountains 
• The best stands on Highway 61 are between Two Harbors and Gooseberry. They are often found along the roadside near older homesteads. There are also amazing fields of them between the Pigeon River and Thunder Bay.
• Showing just how perfect they are for the North Shore, lupine do poorly in rich soil. Good thing we're mostly gravel, bedrock and clay up here!

Enjoy the display of colors...it's North Shore summer at its finest.

Lady's slippers and Larry Weber at Jay Cooke

Heavy rains this week have returned the North Shore rivers to flood stage. Rains also damaged the road construction underway near Split Rock Lighthouse, slowing the traffic there. This is the weekend to stay closer to Duluth and explore the seasonal wonders of Jay Cooke State Park.

Showy Lady's Slipper, from www.maine.gov

Lady's slippers near and far
Wildflower fans come to Jay Cooke in early summer for the displays of lady's slippers. This week, there are yellow and showy lady's slippers blooming in the park, including some that are found right near the park office. Hike #1 from my book Hiking the North Shore, the 3.6 mile Silver Creek Trail, goes right past a huge stand of yellow lady's slipper. Stop at the brand-new park office for directions to the park's fabulous orchids.

The Swinging Bridge over a raging St. Louis River, 2008

The St. Louis River is running high after heavy rains, and should be thundering underneath the park's iconic Swinging Bridge by this weekend. But the river won't be the only noise there: park naturalist Kristine Hiller says that gray tree frogs are hanging out on the bridge stone pilings and calling.

Learn to fish, camp and birdwatch
Three interesting...and free...programs are on tap for this weekend in the park: on Friday, join the "I Can Fish" program from 1:00 to 3:00. On Sunday, there's "Camping 101" , also from 1:00 to 3:0.

Larry Weber

Early-risers, birdwatchers and nature lovers are in for a special treat. At 7:00 am Sunday morning, meet renown local naturalist Larry Weber at the campground bathhouse for a bird song walk. No binoculars needed, just listening. 

How to get there
The park is located in Carlton, MN. If you're coming from the Twin Cities, take exit 235 off Interstate 35 and head through the towns of Carlton and Thompson on Hwy 210 to the park. From Duluth, take exit 239 and follow the signs to Carlton and the park.

Near collision in Duluth Ship Canal

BBC Orinoco headed for the wall of the Duluth Ship Canal South Pier

BBC Orinoco after evasive maneuvers

The BBC Orinoco came uncomfortably close today to a collision with the South Pier Lighthouse. At the time, a thick fog was on the lake, and a strong current was running out of the Duluth Ship Canal. Even as the announcer from the Marine Museum was announcing the arrival of the boat, the boat itself could barely be seen in the fog.

As the ship's bow came out of the fog at 2:00pm, the ship was headed directly for the edge of the South Pier rather than for the middle of the Canal as most ships align. The ship turned in to the Canal and away from the lighthouse and pier head at the last moment, appearing to miss by a few yards. 

BBC Orinoco in Duluth Ship Canal after narrowly missing South Pier

 The BBC Orinoco had left Thunder Bay yesterday and will load beet pulp pellets in Duluth, according to Duluth Shipping News.

The current at the mouth of the Duluth Ship Canal has been noted and feared by Great Lakes navigators for over a century. When the Mataafa collided with the piers in 1905, partial blame was placed on the currents. Lighthouses stand at the end of both the South and North piers to help ensure safe passage into the piers.

Incidentally, it appears that the fog horn located in the South Pier lighthouse was not operating at the time.

A super solstice weekend in Grand Marais

Grand Marais is the place to be this weekend. Northern evenings are long and the nights are short. Duluth and Two Harbors will be packed with marathon runners, so head farther up the shore for a classic North Shore experience with elbow room 

This weekend is the 14th Annual Wooden Boat Show at North House Folk School. The show celebrates the romance and history of wooden boats. From noon on Friday to 3:00 pm on Sunday, a fleet of wooden kayaks, canoes, scows, and more will be on display at the Folk School campus. There's a Community of Crafters, a contra dance, and a Lake Superior Chowder Experience. Some of the coolest courses have already started, like "Handcrafting a Northwoods Paddle," but you can still learn the games of kubb, lacrosse, and deadfish polo. For more information, visit the North House website.

Fire Dragon, from http://www.oldwadenasociety.blogspot.com/

Also at North House this weekend is the Summer Solstice Pageant, with the Good Harbor Hill Players. Every solstice, both summer and winter, creative Grand Marais folks put on a great show mixing North Shore culture with current events and local inside jokes.

For the full weekend experience, grab a campsite at the Grand Marais municipal campground right next door to the North House campus. This campground is featured in my book Camping the North Shore as one of the area's best. As of this morning, they still have tent and RV sites open for the weekend. Call them at (800) 998-0959 or (218) 387-1712 to reserve your spot.

Insider's guide to Split Rock Lighthouse State Park

Split Rock Lighthouse, November 10, 2009

Split Rock Lighthouse is a towering beacon over Lake Superior and an icon for the state of Minnesota. For many people, the lighthouse is the North Shore. The state park that surrounds the lighthouse, however, is a hidden gem that only some visitors enter and only very few truly explore.

The view from Split Rock Lighthouse

If you stand with the crowds around the base of Split Rock Lighthouse, you can't help but notice and enjoy the view down the shore. One rugged cove leads to a steep rocky point, and then another and another, as far as you can see. That entire landscape is within the boundaries of Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, and you can hike, camp or even bike through the heart of it. 

THE BEST CAMPING ON THE NORTH SHORE
This is my personal opinion, though I've heard from many people who feel the same way: the best place to camp on the North Shore if you want real quiet, real privacy and real adventure is the cart-in campground at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park. Twenty campsites are scattered through the woods and along the shoreline. Each site comes with its own cart, which you can use to roll your camping equipment from the parking lot to your private campsite. 

Fourteen of the sites can be reserved in advance through the Minnesota DNR's reservation system. Virtually the entire summer of 2011 is already reserved. 

Insider's tip: Six sites are available first-come, first served. I've found that if you arrive before 10:00 am on a Tuesday or Wednesday, you should be able to get one of those sites; stop at the park office to get on a waiting list. 

Since sites can be reserved 365 days in advance, now is the time to reserve your top pick for the summer of 2012.

SECLUDED LAKE SUPERIOR BEACHES
Hanging out on your own rocky beach, feeling the splash of cool waves, enjoying a private picnic by the lake shore...that's quintessential North Shore. And you can have it in Split Rock. There are at least eight separate beaches in the park, ranging from the broad, steep beach at Little Two Harbors next to the Picnic Area to the remote beach in Crazy Bay. 

Unnamed beach below Day Hill

Insider's tip: I just discovered a new beach this weekend, a small cobblestone beach with a great view of the lighthouse. Head out the back door of the Trail Center building in the park, and walk out across the main Little Two Harbors Trail. Follow a little unmarked trail that seems to lead to a cliff edge. This opens up to a great ledge rock shoreline full of splash pools. Head up the shore toward the lighthouse, which looms above. You'll find a gravel beach that's about 100 yards long and 10 yards wide. 

GITCHI GAMI BIKE TRAIL
Split Rock Lighthouse State Park is at the midpoint of the longest stretch of completed trail of the Gitchi Gami State Trail. You can ride west about seven miles to Gooseberry Falls State Park or seven miles east to the quaint town of Beaver Bay. 

Iona's Beach

Insider's tip: This is not an easy bike trail. There are steep hills and sharp curves. You may have to leave your toddlers on training wheels at home. I recommend going west to Gooseberry State Park and planning to stop at Iona's Beach about halfway there. Iona's Beach is a state Scientific and Natural Area and was set aside to protect its unique red shingle beach. 

Next time you're on the Shore, take the time to explore this hidden gem of a state park. You'll be glad you stopped by.

Big, free day at Split Rock Lighthouse

Saturday, June 11, is the annual open house at all Minnesota State Parks. That means all one-day vehicle permits are free. Perfect! Now you can join me for a great guided hike Saturday at Split Rock Lighthouse State Park.

Most North Shore state parks have trails and landmarks that are open only to those with vehicle permits. This weekend, use this opportunity to explore these trails and landmarks for free.

At Gooseberry Falls State Park, the open house lets you visit the whole lakeshore area with its dramatic stone buildings and open, rocky Picnic Flow. At Tettegouche State Park, the free vehicle permit will let you easily access the High Falls of the Baptism River. At Cascade River State Park, Saturday's free permit gets you access to the lakeshore picnic area and a mile of ledgerock walking. 

See Split Rock's Lighthouse and take a guided hike

This Saturday's open house gets you free admission not only to the state parks but also to Split Rock Lighthouse itself. So make day of it in Split Rock!

Andrew Slade atop Day Hill, with lighthouse in background

I'll be guiding a pleasant hike during the open house. Meet me at the Split Rock Lighthouse State Park Trail Center at 10:00am Saturday. We're going on a 2.6-mile hike on the Little Two Harbors and Day Hill trails. We'll stop at secluded beaches and scamper to the top of Day Hill, where a mysterious stone fireplace frames dramatic lake views. The hike will take about two hours.

After the hike, come to the Lighthouse for a free tour. I'll be signing copies of my new book, Hiking the North Shore, at the museum store there from 1:00 to 3:00pm.  

Eats and treats after the trail
The North Shore's newest dining option just opened up...right at Split Rock Lighthouse! The folks from Splashing Rock Restaurant at Grand Superior Lodge have opened the Third Rock Deli, serving sandwiches, wraps and salads. 

Travel note: construction on Highway 61 is in full throttle now near Split Rock. Expect delays, either if you're driving through or just stopping at the park.

Four random facts about Bunchberry

The bunchberry are blooming along the North Shore. With their simple, bold flowers and symmetrical leaves, they are one of the most common and easiest to identify of all flowers.

Like many wildflowers, this one has lots of factoids concerning its name, its ecology and even its anatomy. You can impress your hiking companions with just one of these four random facts. By the time you get all four out, they'll think you're a genius.

Random fact #1: The name bunchberry refers to the tight "bunch" of orange-colored berries that ripen later in summer. 

Random fact #2: A common local name for the flower is "Canada dogwood." In fact, that's a literal translation of the scientific name Cornus canadensis. 

Random Fact #3: The beautiful white "petals" aren't actually petals. Instead, they are modified leaves that surround and draw attention to the actual flowers, which are very small and greenish yellow. Each one of those little flowers could ripen into one of the orange berries. 

Random Fact #4: The berries are popular with veeries and vireos. 


Any questions?

Hike Gooseberry, Eat Rustic

 Spring has sprung on the North Shore! The woods are filling with wildflowers, the hiking trails are dry after the spring mud season, and the crush of summer tourists has not yet begun. It's a great time to hit the North Shore state parks. Here's what to do this weekend on the Shore:

On Saturday, come to Gooseberry Falls State Park. (From the town of Two Harbors, follow State Highway 61 northeast approximately 13 miles to the park.) Starting from the Visitor Center, take the 2.0 mile Gitchi Gummi Trail through greening birch forests to the scenic overlook above the mouth of the Gooseberry River. Enjoy the new decks hanging over the lake with big views up and down the shore (pictured above). Pull out your snack and savor the sights.

After your short trek, hike back to the Visitor Center for my 12:00 noon program in the theater. I'll be talking about "Hiking the North Shore," with recommendations for more great day hikes along the shore. I'll be signing books in the park store from 1:00 to 3:00 in the afternoon.

When you're done at the park, stop at the Rustic Inn in Castle Danger for pie or a late lunch. I've had their North Shore Crumble a few times lately, but their chocolate (pictured) and custard pies are delicious, too. 

North Shore factoids right from the source

 
Our own North Shore is the center of the universe right now for large lake researchers from around the world. Duluth's harborfront convention center is full of tweedy science types from across the U.S. and Canada, plus China, Africa, Russia and more. It's the annual conference of the International Association for Great Lakes Research. 

What's in it for fans of the North Shore? Some fascinating tidbits, to be sure. I attend a press conference and checked out the conference yesterday as a member of the media (and the only blogger, I believe). 

Among the hundreds of presentations and posters, I'm finding a few digestible if depressing factoids:

• A typical North Shore stream carries 28-42 grams of the toxicant mercury into Lake Superior every year, primarily during spring run-off. 
• The peak of spring run-off on Lake Superior streams is coming 9-13 days earlier in the spring than it did 50 years ago. 
• Lake herring (or cisco) is the dominant fish in Lake Superior by biomass. In other words, if you took all the fish in the lake out and weighed them, the heaviest pile would be the herring. 
• Minnesota has 11,877 "Great Lakes jobs." Wisconsin has 173,969.

I'm going to review the abstracts and post a few more tidbits as I find them. Researchers are finding out a lot about Lake Superior, and it's great to hear it right from the source.

The fog flowers of the North Shore

Tall Lungwort, Piedmont Ski Trail, Duluth

It's been a cold and foggy spring by the shores of Lake Superior. That's been tough on vegetable gardens and bike stores. But it's been great for at least one perfect North Shore wildflower. A flower that NEEDS the cold. It NEEDS the fog.

If you NEED some inspiration to get out and explore the foggy North Shore, look no farther than the tall lungwort, a.k.a. northern bluebells. 

Tall lungwort (Mertensia paniculata) is found all around the cool, moist shores of Lake Superior...and nowhere else in the eastern United States. The only other place it's found in the US is in the western states, on the cooler, wetter sides of the mountains there. 

Tall Lungwort, Tettegouche State Park

Ecologists call these North Shore flowers a "disjunct" population, separated from the main group. Lake Superior provides not only the cool air but also the moisture. If you're a fan of The West and mountains, here's a bit of the western Rocky Mountains right here for you.

It seems like every other wildflower on the North Shore is running at least a week late in the blooming calendar. Not this flower; it's right on time. 

Imagine those first little green growths of lungwort emerging from the damp North Shore soil, sensing cold and fog and saying, in its little plant voice, "PERFECT! Let's grow."

Inspired? Might as well make the best of this North Shore fog and cold, just like this flower does. Poke your head out the door and into the fog and just say, "PERFECT!"

The 9 best hiking shoes for your North Shore treks

Finally the snow has melted, and a North Shore guy's or gal's eyes turn to hiking. And unless you're a masochist, every hiker needs comfortable boots. My fellow adventurers over at UpNorthica suggested swapping some guest blog postings. I wrote a piece about ski-in camping on the North Shore. And in exchange, they wrote this review on hiking shoes. Here's UpNorthica's take on the best day hike boots around. They love "best-of" lists so much, they made three of them!

THE 9 BEST HIKING SHOES, by Pam Wright, UpNorthica

Taking a day hike along the Kadunce River this summer? Want to scramble to the top of Carlton Peak? If you're planning to hike the north shore this year, chances are you'll run into wet, rocky, or hilly terrain. Here's our hot list of choices for light-hikers that should suit your needs for the coming season.  

MEN'S SHOES

Men's Light
NEW Kayland Crosser Mesh  

Why you'll dig 'em: Head deep into the jack pine with these light hikers. Lots of breathable mesh combined with a light insole keeps weight to a minimum.
Weight: 14.4 oz. Construction: 3D mesh microfiber with flat mesh lining. Molded EVA midsole with nylon anti-torsion shank and toe protection. MSRP: $99.95

Men's Waterproof
NEW Keen Alamosa WP 

Why you'll dig them: While the mist is coming down, keep your feet dry. Made of completely waterproof material that breathes, so you don't have hot spots at the end of the day.
Weight: 16.81 oz. Construction: KEEN.DRY(tm) Waterproof breathable membrane and nubuck leather upper with drop-in EVA insert. Multi-directional 4mm lugs for traction. MSRP:  $110.00

Men's Supportive
NEW Garmont Sticky Boulder
Why you'll dig 'em: Bouldering anyone? Provide sturdy protection in between that rock and a hard place, thanks to durable traction and stability on uneven surfaces. Bootie-style construction safeguards against ankle rolls. Weight: 16.4 oz. Construction: Water repellent suede with Vibram Q811 Outsole. MSRP: $114.95

WOMEN'S SHOES

Women's Light
NEW Ahnu Sequoia
Why you'll dig 'em: You'll hardly notice these shoes as you hike for miles. Breathable mesh keeps the weight to a minimum.   Weight: 11.4 oz. Construction: Breathable mesh upper with dual-density EVA.  Ahnu's Numentum(tm) technology provides proper foot biomechanics. Avert bruising on rocky surfaces with the forefoot protection plate. MSRP: $100.00

Women's Waterproof
NEW Merrell Siren Sport

Why you'll dig 'em: Stay dry when the afternoon shower hits 2 miles from the trailhead.  Waterproof membrane keeps water out, but lets the air in. Outsole features 5 mm lugs to keep you stable while clambering over wet roots. Weight: 23 oz. Construction: Synthetic leather and mesh upper. Waterproof, breathable membrane. Lining is treated with Aegis(r) antimicrobial solution. Midsole cushioning styled for women's needs. 5 mm lugs provide grip. MSRP: $110.00

Women's Supportive
Oboz Contour
Why you'll dig 'em: Tackle the harder topography with solid cushioning. The BFit Deluxe Insole is constructed of three densities of foam to protect feet.  The EVA footbed maintains shape overtime providing additional comfort with two smaller, softer pockets of EVA under heel and forefoot. The shaped heel cup keeps your feet from shifting. Weight: 12.2 oz. Construction: Nubuck leather and high abrasion textile fabric upper.  Dual-densities of EVA with BFit Deluxe Insole. Forefoot ESS sheet protects foot from bruising on uneven surfaces. MSRP: $110.00

KIDS'S SHOES

Kid's Light
NEW Keen Alamosa
Why you'll dig them: Explore every bend along the river with these light weight hikers. Quick lace system reduces tripping hazards. Weight: 9 oz. Construction: Water resistant leather and mesh uppers. MSRP: $55.00

Kid's Waterproof
Timberland Hypertrail Oxford
Why you'll dig 'em: Kids inevitably seem to end up wet. Let them scurry over slippery rocks with this waterproof shoe. Gore-Tex waterproof membrane keeps toes dry. Engage in massive mud fights, thanks to a stain-resistant coating. Weight: 9 oz. Construction: Nubuck leather and suede upper with Gore-Tex(r) membrane for waterproofness. EVA footbead provides cushion. SplashBlaster(tm) coating resists stains. MSRP: $65.00

Kid's Supportive
Salomon Trax
Why you'll dig 'em: Slither down ravines or hike a dry creek bed. Padded heel, collar and tongue protects and provides comfort, alleviating pressure and abrasion. Weight: 12.5 oz. Construction: Suede leather with nylon mesh for breathability. EVA midsole absorbs shock and provides cushion. Toe caps protect tootsies from stubs. Quick lace system makes it easy for kids to slip shoes on and off quickly. MSRP: $60.00