Wandering warblers by the waves

Northern Parula (lower left) faces the waves

It's spring...sort of...in Duluth. Birds are migrating through...slowly. Living here on Park Point, we see a lot of migrating birds, especially when it's foggy and windy out. Then they pause for the duration to find refuge and a little bit of food. Birders call it a "fallout."

Here's a good local blog entry on the fallout frenzy in Duluth. One birder found 24 different species of warblers on Park Point in just a few hours this weekend.

For the last few days, there have been dozens and dozens of warblers visiting our backyard and the sandy Park Point beach. Out on the beach, they are hanging out on the little lines of debris washed up by the waves. They must be finding something to eat there, maybe little dead insects.

American Redstart on the sand

These birds are tired, hungry and cold. If you're walking your dog on the beach, keep the dog on the leash so they don't chase these birds to exhaustion.

Northern Parula, up close

Northeastern Minnesota, with its deep forests and its clean lakes and rivers, is warbler paradise. These little flits of life fill our habitats with their songs and color. It's an honor to help them along their way.

We found spring on the Western Waterfront Trail

Sure it's May 5th already. But when I told Sally I wanted to go for a hike this Sunday afternoon, her question was obvious, "Where?" As in, "Are you crazy, everything is snowy, muddy or crowded." 

Duluth's Western Waterfront Trail is a reliable destination for an early spring hike, even when early spring comes in early May like this year. The wide gravel trail dries out early. Migrating waterfowl fill both inviting stretches of open water and the various grassy mudflats around the edges. 

As I recommend in my book Hiking the North Shore, we headed for the obscure eastern trailhead of the Western Waterfront Trail, on 63rd Ave. West. From there you can hike three miles along Duluth's upper St. Louis River estuary. Despite the sunny weather, we had the trail nearly to ourselves. The poodle was stuck on the leash, and had a great time sniffing up all the smells coming out of the thawing ground.

The trail did sustain some damage in last year's June flood, and things are still stabilizing. At one place, a stream had chosen its own crossing about fifty feet away from the old bridge and one hundred feet away from the new culvert. But it's still in excellent shape overall.

So while you're waiting for the Superior Hiking Trail to emerge from winter, and if you don't want to deal with the crowds on the Duluth Lakewalk or the paved paths of Gooseberry Falls, head for the Western Waterfront Trail.

Warbler Walks on the Western Waterfront Trail
If it's a Tuesday in May, head for the Western Waterfront Trail at 6:30 AM for Duluth Audubon Society's annual spring warbler walks. Bring your binoculars!

North Shore Waterfalls: Stay close to shore

Signs warning Gooseberry Falls visitor

Just in the last few days, the waterfalls of the North Shore, from Duluth to Grand Portage, have shed their curtains of ice and are starting to roar. Record late snowfall will feed these falls for weeks to come as the woods slowly release their snowy load.

River ice from the Gooseberry pushed up against an old cedar

The ice on the rivers must have just broken up in the last week. Along the banks of the Gooseberry River today, foot-thick chunks of river ice were piled up against the ancient cedar trees that hold the banks against the milky flood. 

Unfortunately for us fans of waterfalls, it will be tough going to see these torrents up close. The snowpack still reaches all the way to the lakeshore. At Gooseberry Falls State Park, where at least a foot of snow is found in the woods around the visitor center and much more inland, signs warn visitors to the most popular falls to use ice cleats (and "CAUTION"). 

How do I know?
I decided this morning to check out one of my favorite North Shore waterfall hikes. It's Hike #17 in my book Hiking the North Shore: 50 Fabulous Day Hikes in Minnesota's Spectacular Lake Superior Region. It's a three-mile hike that runs up one side of and down the other of the Gooseberry River, bringing you to all five of the park's main waterfalls.

Upper Falls, Gooseberry River

It was easy going on the wide paved path as far as Upper Falls, the blocky fall right above Highway 61. Then it got snowy. And slushy. And wet.

Andrew on Fifth Fall Bridge

Slippy through the slush along the southwest bank, I made it all the way to Fifth Falls, where I crossed the river on the incredibly scenic footbridge. The northeast bank of the river had more sunshine on it and was a bit less snowy. And a bit more muddy. It was tough going.

Other parks, same story
This pattern of snowy slushy hiking on North Shore waterfall hike is true all the way up the shore. The snow gets deep fast as soon as you head inland from the lake and from Highway 61. Another favorite waterfalls hike, the Split Rock River loop on the Superior Hiking Trail, is probably deep in wet snow along the west side of the river.

For the best waterfall hiking on the North Shore this week, stick close to the lake and on well-used paths. If you have cleats for your shoes, strap them on; last thing you want is to slip off the well-packed trail down the gorge and into the just-melted river water rushing away.

Broken up river ice below Middle Falls, Gooseberry River

In Gooseberry, the basic trail around Middle and Lower Falls is in decent shape. People were strolling around in shorts and sneakers, despite the warnings. The famous Middle Falls is as scenic as anything else in the park. The stacked-up pile of broken-up river ice near the base of the falls shows the power of the river at break-up. At Cascade River State Park, the short loop around the lower river is good for hiking, with some mud and some occasional ice spots.

So you should definitely go check out some North Shore waterfalls this week or next. By the time the great hiking trails dry up, the waterfalls might have dried up too.

North Shore ski season: Sudden death overtime

At the Piedmont Ski Trail overlook, April 3, 2013

All good things must come to an end. Eventually, this amazingly late North Shore ski season will be over. But not yet. I skied three kilometers this afternoon on Duluth's Piedmont Ski Trail, and it was basically pretty okay. There is a lot of snow in the woods. As long as the night time temps keep going below freezing, we'll have skiing. But all it will take is a heavy rain or a few days in the fifties, and it will be over.

Here are a few updates for the committed North Shore skier:

City of Duluth trails
The city crews stopped grooming early last week. Positive reports are still coming in from Lester and Piedmont. 

Boulder Lake Ski Trails
The good folks at Minnesota Power are still out grooming the trails.  According to their phone hotline, skate lanes are in good shape. For the most recent updates, find "Boulder Lake Ski Trails" out on Facebook.

Sugarbush Trails
Up in Lutsen and Tofte, they're still grooming their terrific trails. Their reports say Fair to Good for virtually the whole system.

As for me, I'm out of here. For the next 10 days, we're off to explore the desert canyon country again. When we're back, the trails will all be mud and energy bar wrappers. I am done. My good ski season has in fact come to an end.

Unless...

Bonus season: Take another lap

Are we near the "Finnish" of the North Shore ski season?

It's been an amazing month for skiing on the North Shore. Just when you think the big thaw is around the corner, another 5-6 inches of snow comes out of nowhere, the temps drop below zero, and the groomers carve out another perfect ski trail. The snow pack is still building up. The snow is like January, the sunshine and long days are like March. 

Sally and I have been out skiing every chance we get. On Saturday, we skied at Piedmont here in Duluth. Sunday we drove north to Boulder Lake. Both days we decided to ski one more lap, one more bit of trail that on any other day we would have skipped.

The ski season will end. Even with today's snow, the season could end next week. For now, it's carpe diem and take another lap. 

Where to go for the snow
Where is there still good skiing on the North Shore? The short answer is "everywhere." But as temps rise and the crowds thin, you'll want to head to trails that are committed to grooming. Here's where you'll find the best late-season North Shore skiing this year:

• Sugarbush Trails (Tofte and Lutsen area), especially the Moose Fence area up the Sawbill Trail and the Onion River Road.
• Boulder Lake
• Tettegouche State Park
• Central Gunflint Trails (click here for some great wintry photos)

Choose Korkki Nordic for your best ski of the year

One of my favorite all-time North Shore ski trails is Korkki Nordic, up in the ridgeline above the shore between Duluth and Two Harbors. Sally and I played hooky today and took a few laps on this terrific woodland trail. That was the first good choice of the day.

Korkki is a truly classic trail. It's narrow and winding and is groomed for classic skiing only. Because so much of the trail is in deep forest, more snow is required to open it safely. Last year, the trail might have been open only two weekends. This year, it's been open for two months already and going strong. I had to get out there before the snow all melts.

To reach Korkki, drive north on Homestead Road from the Highway 61 expressway (about halfway between Duluth and Two Harbors). After 2.5 miles, turn left on Korkki Road. About 0.5 miles later, watch for the small entrance sign on the right. You'll find ample parking around the terrific chalet. Bring a few bucks to add to the donation box at the trailhead, too. 

 
The trail is one big narrow counter-clockwise 10 kilometer loop, with cut off points all along. The signage has changed a bit in the last few years...what was the "6K cut-off" is now the "5K cutoff." The trail isn't any shorter, but maybe someone got out there with a GPS.

Today I chose the 7.5K cutoff and climbed to the top of the Iso Maki Big Hill. Looking through the maple trees on the hilltop I could see the open blue waters of Lake Superior and the distant Wisconsin shore. 

Then I fell on my ass, before I even headed down the big scary hill. 

And then I got my skis pointed the right way and took on the hill itself. I flew by a sign so fast I couldn't read it...I think it said "Caution, hill ahead." Right about there, I had a small religious conversion, calling out "Jesus!" just as the trail got steeper yet and narrowed in between two large trees. 

And I made it all the way down without falling again.

That's Korkki for you: choose your path, get a thrill, and it all works out. 

On the long run back down to the chalet, I felt like a skiing god. With just a few kicks or pole pushes, I glided through the forest.

It was all so much fun, we chose to do it again. 

 

Tour Duluth, an urban ski challenge this weekend

You know how in a Broadway musical, they start with an overture that includes snippets of all the great songs to come? What if they did the same thing at the end of the musical as well? An epilogue...an “outro”?...the grand finale?

That’s just what’s happening on Duluth’s cross country ski trails this Saturday, March 9. Thanks to Duluth XC Ski Club for sponsoring a great event.

 

Hans Slade, Tour Duluth 2012

It's all about Duluth
Tour Duluth is a year-end celebration of cross country skiing in Duluth. Skiers are encouraged to ski as many of Duluth’s ski trails as they can in one day. There are six trails and over sixty kilometers of trail here in town.

I challenged myself last year to ski at least 2 km at every trail in Duluth. Toward the afternoon, temps were in the 40s and my son was skiing in shorts. and some people actually ski every last bit of trail.

This year: Better, not bigger
The Tour is a bit easier this year because the ski trail at Chester Park is closed and they’ve consolidated some of the long trails at Spirit Mountain. Last year, there were eight area and about seventy kilometers of trail

Conditions are looking really good this year, plenty of snow with more on the way. Organizers are asking that you download a kilometer tracking sheet.

There are suggested starting times for each of the ski trails. The fun starts at 8:00 AM at the Spirit Mountain Nordic Center, off of Skyline Drive. They will have hot cocoa and refreshment there from 8-11. From there it moves to Piedmont trails, then to Snowflake Nordic (Free skiing for Tour participants), then to Lester. There will be more refreshments at Lester from 2-4. The tour ends at UMD’s Bagley and finally Hartley Nature Center.

Late afternoon on the Hartley Park cross country ski trail

The day wraps up with a big taco dinner at Hartley, 5:30-7:00. Preregistration is requested for the taco dinner.

See you out on the trail!

It's North Shore candlelight season

We are in the heart of North Shore winter right now, with enough snow along the shoreline and the Sawtooth Mountains for almost any of your favorite winter activities. Some of the most popular winter events in North Shore state parks are the annual Candlelight events. Clear your calendar for the next few weekend evenings, because these magic outings in the winter woods are coming soon!

These are great community events. You have never seen our parks so full of life on a dark winter night. Volunteers have worked long hours creating the luminaria, packing the trails, and lighting the lanterns.Trails disappear into the dark woods marked only by candles flickering in a block of ice or in a paper bag. The lights are just close enough that you're never wholly in the dark, yet the dark surrounds you. Often there's a bonfire somewhere off in the woods. Could even be s'mores back there.

 When you get back to the visitor center, you'll find hot chocolate and a lot of ruddy faces full of smiles and woodsmoke. Might even be live music. Ever dance in snowshoes?
 
These candlight events are not just for skiers, either. In fact, at Split Rock Lighthouse, it's just a snowshoe and a hike.

Here's a list of North Shore candlelight events:
Friday, February 8 Jay Cooke State Park, 6:00-9:00, ski and snowshoe.
 
Saturday, February 16, Gooseberry Falls State Park, 6:00-8:30, ski snowshoe and walk.
 
Saturday, February 23 Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, 6:00-8:30, snowshoe and hike.
 
I hope to see you there!
 

Spirit Mountain nordic trails: The same, only better

The cross country ski trails at Duluth's Spirit Mountain have been an insider's mecca, a system of well-groomed trails in lovely hardwood forest that only a few folks seemed to know about. Those that knew it, loved it. If you didn't know it, well...

Over the summer, the Spirit ski trails got a major makeover, both physically and logistically. The trails are no longer managed by the Spirit Mountain ski hill, but are cared for by a partnership between the City of Duluth and the Duluth XC Ski Club (DXC).

DXC volunteers took a hard look at the trail system and came up with some significant improvements to the trail layout. What had been a set of nested ski loops, ranging from a 1 kilometer easy trail to an 11 kilometer gut-buster, is now a well-thought out network of trails for all skiers. New signs mark every intersection. DXC volunteers were out this fall clearing out the brush and filling in rough spots. The trail feels well-loved now, after many years of benign neglect.

My old fave, changed
In the old Spirit trail system, my personal favorite was the Pete Fosseide 5K trail, named after the guy who won the 153-mile ski race from Duluth to St. Paul in 1938. It was a perfect five-kilometer intermediate loop, running counter-clockwise through the oaks and maples. About two-thirds of that trail is still in place. However, about three kilometers in, the old "5K" disappears into a small maze of redirected trails. No problem, I found a way to stay on the basic loop using a short section of the advanced 11K. 

In the new map and signage, I went from Intersection E to Intersection I. E to I. Or, as I yelled going down the first steep and scary hill in the gloaming dusk, "E-I-I-I!!!"

If you go
The Spirit Mountain Nordic Center is right off Skyline Drive. From Exit 249 of Interstate 35, head toward the Spirit Mountain downhill area but stay on Skyline Drive. It's about one mile to the entrance to the Nordic Center on the right.

The trail is open daylight hours every day. The nordic chalet is open 3:30-5:30 weekdays and 9:00-4:30 weekends. Plan to come up to Spirit on Saturday, February 9 for Winter Trails Day, with free rentals and free lessons co-sponsored by DXC and local ski shops.

Due to a quirk in time and management, the Spirit Mountain trails this year are free to anyone to ski. You are of course encouraged to buy a Great Minnesota Ski Pass and/or join the DXC.

A N'ice time on the North Shore

Recent cold temps on the North Shore have brought back one of my absolute favorite parts of living along this freshwater sea: jagged colors of ice and thick wafting clouds of sea smoke. Turns out that even though it was 14 below on the Park Point beach this morning, I could still use my little digital camera to take a few pictures.

Climate change has meant that Lake Superior water is warmer than ever. Even with temps at double digits below zero in mid-January, the lake water resists that final nudge to ice. The lake water, about to finally freeze, moves slowly, thickly, but still it would rather evaporate into heavy clouds than turn solid. 

It's a cold snap
I'm not the only one out shooting shoreline photos in the cold. Grand Marais photographer and kayak guide Bryan Hansel has been busy..and cold...this winter. If you're on Facebook, I highly recommend "liking" Bryan's photography. You'll get nearly daily photos from the North Shore, including a lot of great shoreline ice photos in the last month or so. Bryan is also teaching a course in Lake Superior winter photography. This year's course is full, but with enough names on the waiting list he might run another session. Travis Novitsky of Grand Portage is getting some great shoreline shots as well; do check out his "waterfall" photo for a Lake Superior scene you've never seen before. 

Explore on your own
Come on down to the lakeshore almost anywhere now and you'll find dramatic, one-of-a-kind ice formations. Park Point is easy to get to; just go across Duluth's Aerial Lift Bridge and drive five more blocks to the beach access parking lot at the "S-curve" of Franklin Park. Up the shore, check out Two Harbors' Lighthouse Point, the beach at Gooseberry Falls State Park, or Artist's Point in Grand Marais. 

Duluth cross country ski trails: 2013 winter update

When you think of skiing and precipitation, most people think about snow. But it's been rain that has affected our trails the most. The great Duluth flood of June 2012 has impacted cross country skiing in Duluth at least as much as this winter's snow. Here is your guide to Duluth's city ski trails in this post-flood winter, working from west to east.

Magney Ski Trail
At the far western end of Duluth is a large and wild 13 kilometers of ski trails that wind through the old-growth forests of a city scientific and natural area. Sadly, the June floods wiped out the stone bridge where Skyline Drive crosses over Stewart Creek, so there is no direct access to the Magney trailhead this year. Some very hearty skiers are skiing all the way into the Magney trails via the Spirit Mountain nordic ski trails, but that adds at least four kilometers just to get there. While the Duluth city groomers are maintaining the Magney trail, it's really open only for the most committed skiers. Read recent reports from SkinnySki.com here.

Piedmont Trail

Perched above West Duluth along the city's scenic ridgeline is this family-friendly 6 kilometers of trail, mostly double-tracked and well-suited for advanced beginner skiers. The flood did not affect the Piedmont trail long-term at all (a few small bridges were replaced this fall). Skiing has been decent so far this winter, with just enough snow for skiers to make their own tracks. Bonus for this year: thanks to the extra funding provided by Duluth's new parks fund, there's a porta-potty in the parking lot. Read recent reports from SkinnySki.com here. 

Chester Bowl
Wrapped around Duluth's urban family downhill ski run is a 3 kilometer advanced loop. Sadly, the June floods wiped out a critical bridge on the loop as well as parts of the trail. The city will groom a small loop in the open field area near the trailhead, but the Chester trails are closed for the winter. Read recent reports from SkinnySki.com here. 

Hartley Field
Tucked into the middle of eastern Duluth is the 660-acre wild area known as Hartley Field, with a nested set of ski loops totaling 5 kilometers. While these trails have not been groomed this year, skiers are still enjoying them. There was no damage from the floods, so really nothing is changed here...yet. Ski planners are considering a major reroute of the trail system. Red recent reports from SkinnySki.com here. 

Lester Park
On the city's eastern edge is this giant system with 18 kilometers of trails for all ages and abilities, including the city's only trails that are lit at night. The trail itself sustained moderate damage from the June floods, but those have all been fixed. The major impact of the flood is the closure of Seven Bridges Road, the most common access to the Lester system. If you drive up Seven Bridges Road (a.k.a. Occidental Boulevard) from Superior Street, you'll find the road completely closed just past the first of the seven bridges. As at Piedmont, there's a bonus porta-potty here for your comfort. From this new parking area, it's a short walk up a seldom-used snowmobile trail to the trails. Most skiers will start at Point A on the system now. The snow is shallower on the lower parts of the trail and gets deeper the further you ski up the hill and away from Lake Superior. Read recent reports from SkinnySki.com here. 

Remember, you can call the city's grooming hotline at (218) 730-4321 for current conditions.

Reading Rainbow on the power of books

Our kids grew up watching a lot of PBS shows. One of our favorites as parents was Reading Rainbow. If you ever watched the show, check out this autotune version of Levar Burton "singing" the praises of books.


While Levar wasn't talking (or, um, singing) specifically about trail guides, this video captures so much of what There and Back Books is all about. As much fun as our blogs and my Twitter feed are, the core of our business is still books, actual physical books, like Skiing the North Shore. As Levar sings in this video, "A book lets you zoom through time and space. Whether you head north, south, east, or west, a book can be your passport." 

Levar also has a big nod to maps, saying, "I love maps. Each one tells me something different about the world." I've really enjoyed working on the maps of our books, reliving my adventures in the wild with a few curvy lines on the page. Our maps really set our books apart from most other trail guides. 

Don't take my word for it
At some point in almost every show, Levar would start a new section by saying, "You don't have to take my word for it." Check out our books for yourselves. They're in a lot of libraries, but I'm hoping you'd like a copy to keep in your backpack or car.

We'd love to help out your Christmas giving with one or more of our books. Here are some of the independent retailers that sell a lot of our books:

Midwest Mountaineering, Minneapolis
The Bookstore at Fitgers, Duluth
TrailFitters, Duluth
Duluth Pack Store, Canal Park, Duluth
Lake Superior Trading Post, Grand Marais

"One of the best inventions ever," Levar says, "is the book." One of the best Christmas presents too.

Short Shore winter? Or are we just getting started?

Duluth and the North Shore are thickened with fog, the sort of cold damp fog that feels like the snowpack just exhaled all its moisture. Just two days ago skiers were pumped about the decent early-season conditions. Me, I actually skied 6 kilometers on my son's November birthday, and that felt pretty good.

Now the snow is simply disappearing into the air and we are left hanging. Will it be another awful snowless winter after all?

Time to cling to the weather forecast, to watch the skies and to feel the wind shifts. Forty percent chance of snow for Sunday? Wax up your skis, it's gonna be a blizzard.

Are you addicted to skiing? Take this easy test!

Are you addicted to skiing? Take this easy test and find out!

So we're starting to get some halfway decent early season snow on the North Shore ski trails. In some places, the groomers are even out fixing up ski tracks. Just how committed are you to cross country skiing?

How many pairs of skis do you own?
A) Zero
B) 1-2
C) Not enough

How far have your friends ever driven for a ski outing?
A) 1 mile
B) 2-10 miles
C) Idaho, Alaska

Do you apply storage wax to your skis in the spring?
A) What’s storage wax?
B) No I just leave on whatever goop I last used.
C) Duh, you think I just let my skis dry up over the summer?

What’s the bare minimum amount of snow you’re happy to ski on?
A) Two feet and soft enough to be poofy when I fall.
B) Two inches, but it has to be a thick two inches
C) As long as the ground is at least half white.

What sort of goal do you have for skiing this winter?

A) Get out on my skis at least once.
B) Ski at least once a week, as long as there’s snow.
C) Not sure yet, but it’s measured in the hundreds.


Scoring:
Every A answer equals 1 point
Every B answer equals 2 points
Every C answer equals 3 points

5-8 points: You can take it or leave it. You can still maintain normal social relations, even when it’s snowing.
9-12 points: You might be losing friends who aren’t skiers and gaining friends who are.
13-15 points: You are totally addicted. Either get treatment or move to Greenland.

Black Friday, Grand Marais-style

Grand Marais Christmas Parade. Photo Stephen Hoglund, Cook County Visitor Bureau

Thanks to the blogger Mikel from Caribou Highlands known online as "Voice of the Mountains" for the top five list of reasons to "Shore it up" for Thanksgiving. My favorite is reason #3, "No Black Friday". As the writer puts it, "There’s plenty of other chances to get trampled at a shopping mall."

I covered last year's Grand Marais Black Friday in a post here. Basically, it's another busy day in Grand Marais. No doorbusters. No five a.m. openings. The narrow aisles in Joynes are as crowded as ever, with stacks of Carhart pants threatening to fall on the stacks of Woolrich shirts as they compete for your holiday dollars. Yes there are sales, 10% off here, 20% off there. But no one will get trampled looking for a deal on Ragg wool socks.

The real fun of Black Friday kicks in at dark, with the Grand Marais Christmas Parade. Where else would you find a Christmas event themed "O Ole Night"? In what Twin Cities mall would you be encouraged to wear your best goofy Christmas sweater and join in the Uff Da parade? Only on the North Shore.